16-channel solid-state power controller for military and aerospace applications introduced by DDC | 220v Contactor Relay

I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.

AC is safer than DC. You can let go of two AC terminals but not DC as DC keeps your muscles clenched. AC doesn’t.

UL rule of thumb for shock hazard: 1.5mm / 60mils distance between a hazardous live conductor and something touchable for single insulation level protection (double that for double insulation).

I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.

3-phase installations like industrial facilities and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.

Last year, Sonos announced plans to add support for Apple’s AirPlay 2 to its speakers. AirPlay 2 is a significant feature in that it will allow iPhone and iPad users to send audio from basically any app to Sonos’ great-sounding speakers. And you’ll be able to tell Siri to play tracks from Apple Music on Sonos systems; the Sonos One smart speaker doesn’t currently let you launch music from Apple’s service with voice commands, but AirPlay 2 is a roundabout way of introducing that convenience. The difference is that you’ll be doing the talking to your phone instead of the Sonos.

I think the issue is more that 8A might be fine for a light but embedding it where another future operator will reasonably assume it is rated at 15A is not fine.

I don’t think we would save that much money by swapping the heater to a mains powered. You would need something that is better insulated, and made of other materials. I highly doubt it would be possible to make a PCB with high enough resistance to work at 230V. That needs to be better insulated, more material, higher cost. Then you need to change the driver from a simple MOSFET to something isolated. Based on ebay prices of the kinds of supplies used, i would say there is a $10 saved by using a smaller power one. This is easy to see disappearing in better insulation and more complex driver.

Ultimately under-rating won’t solve the problem. The Chinese scammers are already putting below-rated parts in, because they assume most users will under-rate anyway, so they’ll get away with it. If, in response to that, you under-rate even more, and this becomes mainstream, what do you think will happen? They’ll just take it into account, same as ever, and the 75A parts you’re putting 40A through, because you want to be careful, will only contain 20A triacs.

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While no standard is perfect, I have found that knowing the NEC and looking carefully at manufacturer listings and labels can save you time, your customers money, and help keep everyone safe.   

However, there’s a reason we use 12V and 24V heated beds – they give us, at the very least, the illusion of safety. Therefore, [Makertum] is looking for a few comments from specialists and people who know what they’re doing.