There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.
I don’t use my infrared camera as a quantitative tool; I use it as a qualitative tool. Yeah, I know, more blowhard words. Put simply, I’m not too concerned with the exact temperatures that are displayed on my infrared camera. As a home inspector, what I’m concerned with and what I dig into are the meanings behind unexpected temperature differences, aka anomalies.
So it’s the usual forgettable Toyota – but still hugely preferable to the godawful Prius which is a truly horrendous looking vehicle
The leads on that TO220 case SCR and that solder trace are not going to handle 20 amps continuously without heating up. A SCR that’s up to the task of carrying 20 amps for hours on end would have a TO-218 case or even be stud mount. If all else fails you could just use a contactor relay which is what they normally use for this application.
Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.
If you can power the logic side with some +5V derived from mains, there is no point keeping the optocouplers, right? Of course, the ESP would need to be programmed when unplugged from mains A/C, but with OTA, it should be possible to control it all wirelessly once the initial firmware setup is done, even more so with LUA where telnet over wifi can be used once initial setup is done. So now, what kind of circuitry is needed to hash mains A/C to +5V DC (or even better, directly +3.3V)? What’s in a commercial USB adapter? Greg
I once started cutting into a wall which the building super assured me had no utilities in it with an old sawzall with the ground pin cut off, woke up on the floor with the saw still going in my hands. I hit a live natural gas pipe but the bad ground knocked me down before I could sever gas pipe and destroy the building, kind of like the freak accident where you get thrown clear since you weren’t wearing a seatbelt and walk away from an otherwise deadly crash. I don’t recommend using ungrounded tools but don’t take anyone’s word, verify yourself!
Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.
Well your musle will clench with AC as well. That’s why friend mine is still among the living. He was an oilfield pumper after n over night thunderstorm there was much equip down because of blown fuses and tripped motor over load protection devices my fried got an a hurry and got careless He reached int a motor control box and grab a fuse in each hand to pull them out. Because of other damage in the box they where energized. The jolt threw him on his ass because his hands clenched surround the fuses the act of throwing him back disconnect him from the electric power as the fuses pulled out out of their holders. I tech school one of the other student got bit by HV inside a TV and it threw his hand way. He wasn’t hurt by the electrical shock, but we kept an an eye him for a while because he looked like he could enter a state of physical shock.
It’s not all a bed of roses with video and live AF on the Sony A33, though. While it tracks action very well, focus actuation with the kit lens is far from silent: In anything but a very loud environment, the "chock… chock" of the lens’ focus operation is painfully apparent in the audio track. Even with the ultrasonic motor-equipped Sony 70-200mm f/2.8G lens attached, focus noise was quite audible in quiet environments. Another really annoying (and entirely avoidable) audio artifact is the loud click that’s recorded at the very end of each video clip; the sound of your pressing the video on/off button to stop the recording. I experienced this with the NEX-5 as well, and it honestly seems like a bug to me.
The spark-gap Tesla coil itself was
The purpose of this project is to fabricate a heater for use in a 3D printer. Nobody is suggesting that we should somehow 3D print a heater.
16-channel solid-state power controller for military and aerospace applications introduced by DDC | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker Related Video:
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