16-channel solid-state power controller for military and aerospace applications introduced by DDC | Circuit Breaker Parts

Power outlets in homes—but not businesses and other buildings—are required to have tamper-resistant receptacles, which prevent kids from getting hurt when sticking objects in the slot. At first glance, the tamper-resistant receptacles don’t look different from the ones without the safety feature, so read the label closely if you need to buy a new one. They’re a little more expensive, but I’ll send you back for another if you don’t shell out the extra money up front.

The IEC61010 category ratings on an Agilent multimeter. Medvedev [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia CommonsYour instruments such as multimeters, oscilloscopes, and their probes will all carry an appropriate safety rating for maximum voltage, surge voltage, and current. In modern equipment this will be denoted by specified classes each with their associated voltage defined under IEC 61010, though you may find older equipment with IEC348 or other national standard ratings (Fluke publishes a handy PDF explaining these standards in detail if you would like to know more). These ratings are important in ensuring that the instrument keeps you safe as you use it.

So here follows the first in a series on how to approach electronic devices containing high voltages, and live to tell the tale. By “high voltages” we mean anything up to mains voltages, and those directly derived from them such as the few hundred volts rectified DC you’ll find in a switch-mode PSU. For multi-kilovolt EHT you’ll have to wait for another article, because that is an entire subject in itself. We’ll mention these higher voltages in passing, but their detail is best left for a Hackaday colleague with more pertinent experience.

I really do like the C-Max, as it’s a compelling value, and it actually drives fairly well in my opinion.

I’m currently looking into buying some Class 2 insulating gloves for our hackerspace, for starters. Better safe than crisp…

But even so, you’re not likely to be arrested for adding your own electrics, I dunno that it’s actually illegal. Charging money for it would be different. But I can imagine insurance companies would hold it against you. Any excuse, of course. You’ll have to check the teeny-weeny print in your policy, and the extra documents they didn’t send you. But it’s not impossible for someone to fuck up mains wiring and burn their house down, and that would be their fault.

You can burn your house down in many different ways. Knocking over a poorly placed candle, or dropping a napkin on the electric stove are much more likely than a fault in the wiring, and the insurance company will pay out just the same. They would have to show that you were grossly negligent.

(So your distribution wire can be thinner, and so cheaper, mainly because you have less current, but also because you can have a slightly higher voltage drop with less consequence !)

For maximum resolution and shooting speed, plus built-in GPS, choose the Sony A55. Give up a little speed and resolution and drop the GPS, though, and you can save upwards of $200 with the Sony A33.

It’s just sensible to avoid risks where you can. If it doesn’t cost much extra, why not bother? Tinkering with a 3D printer is likely to take concentration away from other areas. Low voltage is intrinsically safe from electrocution. Don’t make things dangerous for yourself.

Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.

You can get special ground fault detection switches. The circuit at the output of the isolation transformer should be floating with respect to ground. When they detect an impedance between that circuit and ground below some configurable threshold (sometime 5Mohm) they will switch off the power.