I think this could have failed purely due to the inadequate heat sink, made worse by elevated summer temperatures. Add the possibility of counterfeits in, it was doomed to failure.
Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.
Installing a ceiling fan might not sound complicated, but it’s nothing like putting together a barbecue yourself. You’re trying to figure out the motor while hoisting a 70-pound fan 12 feet above the floor. Call me up—I can finish the job faster and safer than you could.
Meh, just use a relay for your “PWM”. It’s much easier, and you have a huge low pass filter. You can easily go up to a few Hz switching with a good realy. Use a solid state relay and it’s even better (you might break your mechanical relay after prolonged use).
Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.
VAC says: “The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other.” Of course they are not. *by definition* if they were in phase there would be no voltage difference between them. The two 120V legs are 180 degrees different from each other, so the difference between them is 240V. Which is (of course) the supply voltage.
Then again, like other counterfeit assemblies…. they might rely on the installer using a 25A relay for a 15A load which is why they put a counterfeit 16A triac inside which the manufacturer actually put a die of a 12A because he knows his user will de-rate the max current anyway.
I thought “residual current circuit breaker” was just the European name for what we call a GFCI in the US.
The second was in an industrial setting, working on repairing a 480v-supplied welder in a hard-wired installation. Plant electrician assured me the circuit was locked & tagged out. I trusted him. Sprayed some contact cleaner on the mains relay to start, and took 480v up the spray and into the can (and my hands holding it). That was an unusual sensation.
You know very well, I hope, that for dimming you need to use a random phase optoisolator not a zero-crossing one. Like MOC3020/21 for example. This is in the command/trigger circuit for the Mains swiching Triac. Now show us your Relay driven dimmer beauty concept. Is good to learn something new everyday.
What about converting down to 12-24v AC for the bed with a ZVC switch going to the controller? It seems that running it off DC is wasteful but mains is relatively risky.
Most systems now do not distribute ground (earth) from the MV / LV substation. At the sub the neutral is connected to ground through a low value resistor (<1 ohm) to a nest of earth spikes. Live and neutral are then distributed. At the house Neutral will be connected to a suitable ground point and at that point the earth connection is split off from the neutral. This means that any difference in ground potential is slowly leaked through the big resistor at the substation and it is a big resistor, looks like an oil tank maybe 2 metres high and 1.5 metres across. It is also normal that if there is any equipment at a pole it will also have an earth nest for the neutral wire.
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