2018 Kia Niro PHEV Review – A Spreadsheet Nerd’s Dream | 220v Contactor Relay

So you have to put new wire to have proper L1 anyway, you might as well put one that will serve properly 7times faster.

I’ve thought about converting my Solidoodle 2 to 120v bed heating for ages now. I think it’s a good idea with a lot of benefits. I’ve been far to lazy to actually do it, however. Maybe one day I’ll get my act together. In the mean time I’ll just sit here and envy other people who have had the initiative to actually do it.

I bought an optically isolated unit that is a “Solid State Relay.” ( SSR)The insides are some kind of zero crossing SCR/TRIAC I’m sure but the key is that the input is a logic signal at a few ma anywhere between 4-30 VDC. This unit is rated to 250VAC at 50 amps. I use it with a foot switch and DC wall wart to turn my welder on and off. It DOES require a beefy heat sink for that kind of power but it hasn’t even broken a sweat (my welder uses around 40 amps give or take.) I would strongly recommend adapting this circuit to take advantage of one of the many available SSR’s out there and let a professionally made and UL certified device handle the mains side. You just drive one of these with the GPIO side here. Of course you can use a much smaller unit for doing the typical 15 Amp light circuits. I actually used such a unit controlled by an Arduino to switch a hot plate (1000 watts) on and off for my flow soldering rig where the Arduino automates the solder temperature profile. I think it is best to marry our “hacks” to these commercial components that have proven performance/certification for our mains. My two cents ‘

In plain English, what that means is that the thing AIN’T CERTIFIED FOR ANYTHING. It just means the device has met MINIMAL safety concerns, when operated under typical conditions. It doesn’t say anything about out-of-the-ordinary conditions.

Capacitive or Resistive Voltage Dividers are not really an option for this device since the ESP8266 draws a relatively high current. You would have a high power dissipation (resistive) or a VERY large capacitor. A more complex design or a small transformer has to be used here.

two suggestions… 1. bridge it and use as a 230v rectified/ cleaned up DC as per your choice 2. as with pop up toasters and hairdriers, use convection and radiation instead of conduction. use a hot coil and duct the hot air for circulation under the bed.

Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…

Depends how far north you are – direct sunlight isn’t required for them to produce useful heat. If you’ve got a months long night then they’re no use though.

That’s how you may get some serious, even life-threatening, internal RF burns without noticing anything.

Electrical installations in Northern States are much more insulated from the weather than those of you in warm climates, so the typical installations for car charging are almost never $300.

If I find a warm circuit breaker, I take a logical approach. First, is there a good reason for the circuit breaker to be warm? A 240-volt appliance like an air conditioner will definitely warm up a circuit breaker while it’s operating. No problem there. The image below shows a warm circuit AC circuit, but in this case, I do care about the temperature readings. This circuit is only about 8 degrees warmer than anything else in the image. This is not a significant difference, and it makes sense.

However, there’s a reason we use 12V and 24V heated beds – they give us, at the very least, the illusion of safety. Therefore, [Makertum] is looking for a few comments from specialists and people who know what they’re doing.