2018 Kia Niro PHEV Review – A Spreadsheet Nerd’s Dream | 220v Contactor Relay

Agreed…. I used to have a small plastic box in our workshop. It had two copper contacts on opposite surfaces, and a 9V battery, relay and tilt switch inside, and a Caution High Voltage sticker on it,

And because what you need is power and not current, and because of voltage drop in your wiring, the current is slightly more than twice. If you have a load of 1200 Watts, so 10 A in 120VAC and 5 A in 240 VAC. With wire around 8 ohms/km (roughly wire of 2.5mm² section or 14 AWG), you get a voltage drop of 8 Volts in one case, 4 Volts in the other. So 6.67% of your main voltage vs. 1.67% of your main voltage. Already 5% of efficiency loss in your system… But it’s even worst because in this case you don’t get 1200 Watts at your load, only 1120 Watts ((120-8) * 10) and 1180 Watts ((240-4) * 5) To get your 1200 Watts at your charge, you need 10.77 Amps and 5.08 Amps. So you get a overall efficiency of 92.8 % at 120 VAC (1200 / (10.77*120)) and 98.3 % at 240 VAC. (5.5% of efficiency difference).

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I often say this, and I will say it again: just because a thing is often done poorly, foolishly or dangerously does not in and of itself preclude it from being done properly.

HOWEVER: these are NOT 180 degrees out of phase. It is more like 120 degrees. I am taking it that America also has 3 phase supplies, rather than 2.

The Death Star post illustrates why we shouldn’t let economists decide how to run things. That and a million other stories from real life.

Creating a PCB heat bed isn’t an art – it’s a science. There are equations and variables to calculate, possibly some empirical measurements by measuring the resistance of a trace, but Ohm’s Law is a law for a reason. If you do things right, you can make a PCB heat bed perfectly suited for the task. You can even design in safety features like overcurrent protection and fuses. It can’t be that hard. After all, your house is full of devices that are plugged into the wall.

> and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.

An emergency isolation switch. Santeri Viinamäki [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia CommonsYou will be familiar with emergency isolation switches if you have worked with large machine tools. A big red switch designed to be easy to hit to turn all the power off. You may want to hit it if something gets out of hand, or someone else may want to hit it for you to turn off the power that is electrocuting you. Either way it provides a very quick way to manually make any mains sources on your bench as safe as possible in the event of an incident. Remember the bit we mentioned earlier in about sitting on the end of the line twitching until the power is turned off? This is the big red switch that makes it very easy for someone to do that for you.

Yeah, dont use these. Use a relay instead. There is a reason all the high end stuff went away from the Triacs as they will float to full mains voltage when no load is connected and you get electrocuted when you mess with the circuit. AMX, Crestron, Lutron, etc all have moved away from pure Triac control due to this safety issue.

The issue with the DC heated beds seems slow temperature rise. Some bigger builds and beds need a quicker heatbed heater. (In my opinion not needed for PLA) Only for ABS.

Over and over again, I have heard HVACR technicians and electricians quote rules of thumb regarding wiring sizing, and I have witnessed and participated in many heated debates on the topic.