For while it inevitably doesn’t turn back the clock and serve up the giggle-a-minute thrills of hatches of yesteryear, unencumbered by safety or emissions regulations as they were, the Corolla is a genuinely enjoyable car to drive, gripping the road and controlling its body movements very well, and giving the driver the feedback to know what the front wheels are doing . It is both reassuring and genuinely engaging.
We drive about 30k miles/year, lots of long trips. After a trip, we usually pull in with 25-50 miles of range remaining. No problem – charging to the normal 80% is < 7 hours.
All of these ratings can be found in NEC (NFPA 70) Table 310.15(B)(16) in detail, but as an example, according to this NEC chart, a 6-gauge copper circuit rated at 90°C (194°F) has an ampacity of 75 amps while a 6-gauge aluminum conductor rated at 60°C (140°F) has an ampacity of 40 amps. Of course, there are other considerations in addition to this, but it is clear the rules of thumb we often use can get us in trouble if we aren’t aware that exceptions exist and what those exceptions are.
Sega also announced that it was working with a Japanese developer to review the design and software for the console. It’s not clear if this news means that AtGames, the US company behind the poorly reviewed Genesis Flashback console, is still involved in the project as it was originally announced. It seems that AtGames has deleted the original Facebook post from April that announced that the Mega Drive Mini would be powered by its hardware.
For every piece of equipment that lists MOCP and MCA, you are given the breaker size and minimum wire ampacity. As above, the MOCP is usually significantly higher than the MCA, but this is to allow for the spike in amp draw upon motor start.
not exactly mains but when i was a kid i enjoyed playing with photoflash caps and at one point had one fully charged to about 330V and discovered the negative post to the AA battery was also connected to the cap and put the entire shot up one arm, across my damn heart and out the other arm, my whole body locked up for only about a second (maybe 2) and i think i fell over (like people in taser videos but i was sitting). it sure shook me up and im glad it was only a small cap
I’m constantly amazed by the use of a giant blob of solder to increase the cross section of PCB traces meant to increase their current carrying capability.
But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.
I think a lot of the negativity is par for the course on Hackaday when dealing with HV (or other areas with safety concerns) projects. I got my share of the same thing with my “Quick 220 clone” project. Such projects should garner a healthy dose of paranoia, but I think where it goes wrong is when that converts into unfriendly skepticism – that somehow it’s impossible for an amateur working alone to build something that would pass muster with UL or CE.
With the large kossel build a mains heated bed is used. The mini kossel build used a reflective surface under the heated plate, a bit heath robinson, that it is used on the new larger build is good, heat is reflected up into the bed, lt worked well on the Mini Kossel.
I use a contactor with my sonoff, 1kw pool pump. The sonoff is seriously under specced for switching a pool motor.
It would work, you could try just one winding on its own to start with but beware the voltage surge you get when disconnecting the current, as a minimum it should make a nice spark, even with a small battery driving it, at its worst it is shocking(!) I think the reason for winding your own coils is to get the optimum ampere turns for a chosen voltage, if you use what the transformer comes with you will have to work out what voltage gets you the highest magnetic strength without burning out the winding.
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