2018 Kia Niro PHEV Review – A Spreadsheet Nerd’s Dream | Lrd12 Overload Relay

I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.

The spark-gap Tesla coil itself was

Japan is odd for another reason. The two “halves” of the country are on different frequencies. I believe the West is at 50 Hz and the East and North is 60 Hz. They have a collection of DC interconnects in the middle of the country to facilitate power sharing across this otherwise intransigent gap. Since the shutdown of Fukushima, those interconnects have been under quite a bit of strain, but that’s a whole ‘nother story.

While we didn’t encounter any exposure accuracy issues in our lab tests, I had a little trouble with the Sony A33 and A55′s exposure system in the field. Under bright sunlight, I was generally shooting with -0.3 EV of exposure compensation dialed in. Looking at my photos on the computer later, it seemed that many of them really could have used -0.7 EV. The overexposure bias seemed fairly universal under bright lighting, regardless of whether the subject itself was low- or high-key. Shots under lower lighting didn’t seem to have the same issue, though.

Temperature swing in the water heater may be about 50K, incandescent bulb filament temperature swing is closer to 3000K. I doubt there is much variation in the resistance of the water heater’s heating element

I would also use a solid state relay. And I would think about gluing the glass plate with high temp silicone to the PCB. This vastly improves thermal contact and so heat transfer which reduces peak temp and thermal lag in the control loop. Also it prevents exposed live wires even in case the glass breaks.

Technically it depends on the amount of resistance, effectively proportional to the amount of the conductor the electricity is able to pass through. With AC that means the skin effect comes into play but that’s a whole other bundle of fun math. With DC it’s essentially amps times volts.

I use mains power for my bed on both of my 3D printers. It’s controlled from RAMPs exactly the same as a 12v bed would be with the exception that the signal from the RAMPs board is used to trigger a solid state relay. I use a standard silicon heat mat: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+heat+mat&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjawpmuoOPJAhVFtIMKHXC1AO0Q_AUICCgC&biw=960&bih=557

I think it’s just fine and nice to see someone put care and thinking into this sort of thing in an unusual way for HaD. Usually people are either completely terrified or entirely cavalier about mains voltage in projects on here when all that is required is some respect and thoughtfulness like you have quite obviously displayed. Next you can add a power meter so you know how many quarters to give your friend

That. Console. Is. Disgusting. Reminds me of my PT Cruiser’s cheapest part: the single piece off-white console.

I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.

I had three electrocutions with mains voltage in about one hour. It was a dark and stormy night, when I decided to try again building my own half-bridge SMPS which had tendency to explode whenever I plugged it in. It was made of two boards: one contained EMI filters, bridge, fuse and HV electrolytic capacitors, other had high-side controller, transistors, transformer and everything else. When another transistor decided that it would rather choose new Pope instead of working, I got a bit angry. I grabbed something to drink in kitchen, returned and grabbed the board in order to smash it against the wall. I forgot to unplug it first. Ouch. Half a hour later, it was still dark and stormy night, I attempted to fix an ATX supply. When I was grabbing something from behind of supply, I touched the board with my forearm. Supply was plugged, of course. Ouch. Half a hour later, yes, it was a dark and annoying night, I was still working on the ATX supply. I unplugged the supply and was inspecting the traces, my nose and lower lip brushed solder pads of those two big caps that were charged to ~320V. I went to bed with my face hurting…