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25 things to do before Aug. 25 – Edinboro University News Detail | 220v Contactor Relay

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Cooking Triac? In my experience there are only good Triacs and bad Traics. You can tell the bad Triacs because they usually have a a little bit of plastic encasing still attached to the three legs after they have exploded.

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Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.

In the old days, waaay back in the 20th Century, you’d buy something from a vendor that had a good reputation. It was in their interest to keep their reputation, because that’s where customers came from, so they’d make sure to only buy their materials and parts from reputable suppliers. And they’d do the same, forming a chain of reliability and trust built up through experience and everyone’s mutual need to keep up a reputation.

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Solar water heaters are nice. Sadly, when one gets far north, the sun isn’t a common sight during the cold parts of the year.

Neutral is connected to Earth Ground at your electrical panel. Circuit breakers interrupt the LINE only so I’m not sure what you mean by soil resistivity and current flowing in earth ground. 500 micro amps flowing or rather, leaking through Earth ground is usually all that’s allowed by UL in cord-connected products.

The remote has a few buttons and LED for status. The LED reacts differently depending on the pool’s current mode, so connecting there not only gives you control but also allows you to provide some limited status. It isn’t going to let you monitor pump currents or anything exotic, but it is a simple place to gain access. Using the Arduino pulse input function makes it easy to sense if the LED is on, off, or blinking. Another sensor reads the water temperature. The controller makes it available, but it isn’t simple to read, so the project just reads the raw sensor voltage from the existing thermistor and computes the temperature.

I’m glad you are aware of all of the many issues surrounding this kind of a hack. I spent 15 years as a commercial electrician, so the first thing that I did when I started to read this was think, “Oh, crap. Someone’s going to kill themselves.” I’m glad that’s not the case here.

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If you have a 3D-capable Sony television to view them on, capturing 3D images can definitely be entertaining. That’s about where I’d leave it, though: "Entertaining" vs "compelling." While you do get a reasonable 3D effect in shots captured this way, I found the quality of the 3D experience a little disappointing. Don’t expect Avatar-level 3D, this strikes me as more of a gee-whiz sort of feature: In my experience, the 3D effect is a bit limited, and foreground objects tend to break up visually. I suspect this has to do with the fact that the perspective is changing throughout the sweep, so things like effective intraocular distance and viewing angle aren’t perfectly consistent throughout the image. Whatever the cause, it’s a fun effect, but not something that would be a decisive factor for me in choosing a camera, whereas ordinary 2D sweep panorama is something that I’ve used often. (Personally, I suspect this feature has a lot less to do with selling cameras than it does with selling TVs: I wouldn’t buy a camera for the feature, but all else being equal, if I owned a Sony camera that had the feature, I’d be more inclined to purchase a Sony television that supported it.)

If you wrap your own coil, consider wrapping a thermistor or thermocouple into the windings. Insides may heat up before outsides. Expoxies have limits. You don’t want failure halfway up 50 stories, whether mangni-shoes or a load of pig iron.

So China are stuck before capitalism’s stable period, the West are now past that. China might end up passing through it, or skipping it altogether. Actually the West might end up learning a few tricks from them.

And the MOC3041 can not handle a 1 amp load, “Peak repetitive surge current” is what it can handle for 0.0001 seconds at every 60Hz cycle before getting (possibly) damaged. The continuous load limit is far less than 1 amp.


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