25 things to do before Aug. 25 – Edinboro University News Detail | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

It can take 15 to 20 minutes for your air conditioner to get up and running after it’s tripped a circuit breaker or the power is turned off. Be patient and wait it out before trying something else.

The best tip for buying a portable home generator: Don’t wait until the lights go out. Whether you live in a place at the mercy of snowstorms, hurricanes, heat waves or an outdated electric grid, a power outage can range from an annoyance to life-threatening.

I can’t speak for 75 mph, but the EPA for the regular hybrid Niro is high 40s to 50 mpg highway. Since this car uses the same Atkinson cycle 1.6L engine, I’d expect about the same fuel economy.

No need, really. You just need a few mates with smartphones – just enable the wifi hotspot on each of them, place them roughly in a circle and put your coffee in the center. Make sure to dismantle the circle before you reach in for your cup though if you don’t want to get fried too – safety first!

My situation is a good example. I just purchased a new house and unfortunately it does not have a garage. Until I get the garage built in the Spring with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, I’m going to rough it with L1 at 120V/15A.

I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

However there is a snag. In recent years there has been a flood of cheaper instruments arriving on the market, and some of the manufacturers of these devices have been found to put IEC 61010 ratings fraudulently on items which do not in any way meet those standards. We have covered tales of dodgy cheap multimeters and test failures more than once here at Hackaday, unfortunately this is a widespread problem. So please bear this in mind when buying a multimeter or other instrument for use with mains voltages: the cheapest may not be good enough. We have all used £5/$10 bargain meters with our low-voltage analogue or microcontroller work because a flashing LED on a breadboard is hardly hazardous, however for higher voltages those IEC class markings have to come with a believable provenance. Buy the most expensive instrument you can afford from a decent and reputable manufacturer, it’ll keep you safer and you’ll get a top-quality meter that will last you a lifetime.

The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other. Residential power in the US is single phase, sometimes called split phase because they’re both 120V relative to the center tapped neutral.

At least in the US/Canada/Japan, when you buy an appliance, it comes with a standard (NEMA5 or NEMA1) plug. In Europe and Africa (at least up to a decade or two ago) we often needed to purchase a *plug* every time we bought a device, and play amateur electrician and wire it ourselves (is this still the case?). I’m convinced this is a big reason the horrible standard IEC power entry connector and locale-specific cord even exist.

Rob complains that the board isn’t laid out for 240 VAC — yet I see ample clearance between traces. Other users complain that the board isn’t designed to drive a full 15A load, yet most commercially-available, UL-listed dimmers I’ve seen are rated for 800W or less. The Lutron dimmers I paid almost $30 a pop for only do 600W.

Electrical installations in Northern States are much more insulated from the weather than those of you in warm climates, so the typical installations for car charging are almost never $300.