25 things to do before Aug. 25 – Edinboro University News Detail | Circuit Breaker Parts

From the top of the Sony Alpha A33 camera body, you can just see the stereo microphones, located on either side of the flash hot shoe on the sides of the viewfinder / popup flash housing, as well as the three hole grille the speaker (above the Finder/LCD button). At the top of the handgrip is the popular combination of a shutter button surrounded by a power switch, making it easy to quickly power on the camera and snap a picture with one finger. The Finder / LCD button allows the A33 to be manually switched between shooting with the electronic viewfinder or the rear LCD panel. Upper right of this is a D-Range button that provides access to Dynamic Range Optimizer and High Dynamic Range shooting options.

Last year, Sonos announced plans to add support for Apple’s AirPlay 2 to its speakers. AirPlay 2 is a significant feature in that it will allow iPhone and iPad users to send audio from basically any app to Sonos’ great-sounding speakers. And you’ll be able to tell Siri to play tracks from Apple Music on Sonos systems; the Sonos One smart speaker doesn’t currently let you launch music from Apple’s service with voice commands, but AirPlay 2 is a roundabout way of introducing that convenience. The difference is that you’ll be doing the talking to your phone instead of the Sonos.

I think this could have failed purely due to the inadequate heat sink, made worse by elevated summer temperatures. Add the possibility of counterfeits in, it was doomed to failure.

A couple months back I ran across a note in the datasheet for an inexpensive but reputably sourced power MOSFET that said that, while the die itself was rated for 200A continuous/400A peak the package and its leads were only rated for 125A/250A. So I said to myself “I wonder what the mode of failure looks like?” And built up a circuit to drive it to failure in a controlled manner. It was fairly spectacular: 1) the thermal expansion rate of the die doesn’t match that of the package and once you exceed some wattage tension builds up and (at least in the case of my particular DUT) the chip package literally exploded sending shards of epoxy and/or ceramic flying far and wide. 2) with the die now exposed in several areas and the connection to the heatsink thoroughly hosed by the explosion of the package things devolved rapidly and the magic blue smoke escapes (which smells very bad, FYI, and takes a while to fully purge that smell from the workshop).

Tell that to the parents buying baby formula adulterated with melamine. The Chinese have long standing traditions that support cutting as many corners as possible. Basically, cheat until caught. And their government seems to actively turn a blind eye to all manner of this nonsense.

Three electrocutions? Better be careful cat, you only have six more left before you will die for real Receiving an electrical shock isn’t an electrocution.

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.

Yes, I know that I’m just offloading my energy use to my residential electric service (which is, around here at least, produced mostly by coal or natural gas). Let’s leave that discussion for somewhere else. The impact at the fuel pump is what matters here. Spending eight dollars or less every week to drive to and from the cube farm is incredibly appealing.

In their best days (unfortunately behind them), they have merely LISTED an appliance. (Listing is currently their TOUGHEST CRITERION).

My fairly large (print volume 450x250x350mm) home-made 3D printer uses a mains-powered heat bed made from a junk-pile sourced electric pancake griddle which I ground down to more or less flat and glued a 24×12″ ceramic floor tile down to its top with high temperature silicone. It has a 10 ohm resistance and I use the original temperature control knob as a safety / sanity interlock against thermal runaway and then it is driven by 120v mains power switched by a 25A solid state relay controlled by the normal RAMPS heatbed output. The mains input runs through a breaker box before going to the 24v power supply for the NEMA23 motors and the ATX power supply for the Arduino, RAMPS, extruders, hotends, and Odroid U3 that make up the rest of the printer.

A hobbyist should not screw with a Triac on house wiring if it will be “permanently” installed in a junction box. Make an adapter that plugs into a socket on the outside so that it is clear it is not a normal outlet. If you have to homebrew something like this use a good relay or contactor with a UR approval. AND read the spec on it thoroughly.

Sega announced on its Twitter account today that the release of its Mega Drive Mini, a miniature version of its classic console, would be delayed until sometime in 2019. The Mega Drive Mini’s release was originally slated to coincide with the console’s 30th anniversary in Japan, but its global availability was unknown. Now, the company has confirmed that the miniature console will be released as the Mega Drive Mini in Japan and Europe and as the Genesis Mini in North America.