A Short Guide to Vintage Traynor Amps | 220v Contactor Relay

No I don’t want one, because I have a computer museum and I don’t feel the need to instant-wipe all my floppy disks at the flip of a switch.

Continuing USWaterRockets: PCB could just have the solder mask on, mostly for oxidation/contamination protection, with the heating element trace a single top layer. Put a plate of borosilicate glass (maybe tempered?) tightly over it to spread heat and protect from shock, with overhang on the hazard side. If you want to get fancy, add an “active” indicator LED and a few thermal sensors on the bottom layer. Mind your PCB glass mat material and construction – make sure that the construction can handle the heat (a good [not great, not cheap] construction can handle ~170C before it reaches glass transition temperature)

Anyone that knows me really well, especially family members, is surprised/amazed that I’ve managed to be over 50 and still more or less bilaterally symmetrical, without too many visible scars.

It’s also worth noting that some of the quibbles, such as wind noise and the slightly fidgety ride, are still being worked on. What appears to be a good car could yet get even better.

Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.

Actual 220V is present elsewhere, and is a convenient global average of 240V (UK,) 240/208V (NA), 230V (EU), 200V (Japan, though like NA it’s spit to 100V at normal receptacles). So if a manufacturer designs for 220V +/- 10%, it’s probably usable worldwide.

110/220 is the load rating and 120/240 is what the circuit provides. The voltage could sag as low as 110 or 220 in use.

Yes you are correct, I was remembering from just people recommending power USB power supplies, but looking at the latest data, it seems that current is always less than 215mA. That chip looks good.

You like many others here can wallow in their own baseless opinions, meanwhile millions including myself very safely charge up using 120 volts almost every night. I usually use a higher voltage for the BOLT, but the ELR mostly just charges on 120 the same as most VOLTS.

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.

Meanwhile in my house (uk) we have a street lamp time switch with a single pole switch that looks like it was designed to handle 30A. It is beautifully engineered from brass that increases the on period as the days get shorter, I felt bad hacking it so that it would turn on my water heater for an hour twice a day, a job it has been doing for 17 years now without incident. Electromechanical is by far the best way for high current loads at any voltage as fatcas I’m concerned.

Multilayer varistors (MLVs) address a specific part of the transient-voltage spectrum: the circuit-board environment. Although lower in energy, transients from ESD, inductive load switching, and even lightning-surge remnants might otherwise reach sensitive integrated circuits on the board. MLVs are also made of ZnO materials, but they’re fabricated with interwoven layers of metal electrodes and produced in leadless ceramic packages. They’re designed to transition from a high-impedance state to a conduction state when subjected to voltages that exceed their nominal voltage rating.