A Short Guide to Vintage Traynor Amps | 220v Contactor Relay

So China are stuck before capitalism’s stable period, the West are now past that. China might end up passing through it, or skipping it altogether. Actually the West might end up learning a few tricks from them.

Don’t blame the Chinese for this one! They are more than happy to sell us any quality we want. For example, you are probably reading this on a very well built, Chinese made, smart phone.

You’ll notice that I didn’t explain exactly how to correct this. I do this intentionally because I’m not going to do the work. This situation could be easily fixed by replacing the dimmer switch with a simple toggle switch, by installing a dimmer rated for a higher wattage, or by installing bulbs with a lower wattage. Any of those would be fine, but as the home inspector, I don’t design the repairs.

There is a huge difference between heater and electric motor when it comes to inrush current. But anyway haven’t seen 600A contactor for switching on 60A motor.

The stakes are much higher when you’re connecting your project to the house mains, though, as [Mattias Wandel] recently learned when the solid-state relay controlling his water heater failed, with nearly tragic results. With aplomb that defies the fact that he just discovered that he nearly burned his house down, [Mattias] tours the scene of the crime and delivers a postmortem of the victim, a Fotek SSR-25DA. It appears that he mounted it well and gave it a decent heatsink, but the thing immolated itself just the same. The only remnant of the relay’s PCB left intact was the triac mounted to the rear plate. [Mattias] suspects the PCB traces heated up when he returned from vacation and the water heater it was controlling came on; with a tank full of cold water, both elements were needed and enough current was drawn to melt the solder build-up on the high-voltage traces. With the solder gone, the traces cooked off, and the rest is history. It’s a scary scenario that’s worth looking at if you’ve got any SSRs controlling loads anywhere near their rated limit.

I’ve left perhaps the most salient characteristic of the Sony AF55 and A33′s EVF till last: It’s huge. The view through the Sony A33′s eyepiece is much more akin to that of a full-frame DSLR than that of any competing sub-frame model currently on the market. It manages this with a comfortably high eye point (and plenty of dioptric adjustment) for eyeglass wearers, at least when simply viewing the live viewfinder image itself.

Hey [Martin] I think you deserve some recognition for your contribution here tonight (or whatever time it is for you).

Also power the unit directly from the mains ( http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/appnotes/00954a.pdf ) with the ability to power the unit directly with DC when (re)programming the ESP8266

Being able to “let go” doesn’t help when your insides are burnt and your heart has ceased meaningful function.

I actually also just added remote control to my pool, using a Sonoff 4CH pro. In my case, I have 3 devices I want to control. The pool pump itself, a water feature close to the pool, and the pool lighting. I also incorporated a flow rate sensor into the pump to make sure that the pump was not working too hard (as can happen when there is too much debris in the pool weir basket!). To drive the flow rate sensor, I tapped into the 5V supply before the 3.3V regulator, as the sensor was specced to run on 5V-24V, or thereabouts. I also inserted a level converter in between the flow rate signal and the Sonoff, even though it should be OK with 5V. I didn’t feel like taking chances.

As explained elsewhere here, a major point of the Sony A33/55′s translucent mirror technology is to permit autofocus operation and image exposure to overlap each other, enabling very fast continuous burst shooting with accurate autofocus tracking. They in fact do a remarkable job of delivering 7fps or 10fps full-resolution shooting speeds, although in some respects, the experience is still rather different than shooting with high-end pro SLRs with that sort of burst capability. The heart of the difference has to do with what image the Sony A33 is showing you through the viewfinder at any given moment.

I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)