A Short Guide to Vintage Traynor Amps | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

I’ve been shocked a few times. First time, a friend and I were changing out outlets in a room in his house. He shut off the breaker for the room, and I watched him plug a lamp in and test it. I found out the HARD way, that each side of the room was ran through a different breaker… I got a quick jolt and the gerber tool I was using catapulted across the room…

Comparable relay product datasheets from Omron suggest that without appropriate heatsinking, the current limit should be in the range of 4A to 7A.

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But there is other sources for the “warmth”, all though, if one lives on permafrost, then many of those sources are off limits. Since it is typically either boring a hole into the ground (Not always an option due to geological reasons), putting a hose that is coiled under the surface of the ground, typically a meter or so down. (the ground temperature a meter under ground is typically rather close to the average year round temperature (though dependent on what soil one lives on). We would find permafrost if the average temperature is below freezing.) Or sinking a coiled hose to the bottom of a lake or river. Since the temperature at the bottom of lakes is typically around 4 degrees C. (This though requires that one has a lake on one’s property that doesn’t completely freeze to the bottom… (So a depths of at least a few meters is typically required for cold climate.))

Current starts derating at about 82C (see page 12). But look at the size and configuration of the heat sink required for a 25A SSR, it is 100mmx100mm with lots of fins (see page 13). That will be with lots of free air, preferably mounted so the fins are vertical or with some forced air flow.

Power Supply Plan 24 Volts 300Watt heatpad or higher : Saferhttps://hackaday.io/project/8680-power-supply-plan-24-volts-300watt-heatpad

HDR is a feature that’s easy to over-use, as it can quickly over-flatten the contrast of an image, resulting in a dull, lifeless photo. On the other hand, there are times when nothing else will do. I’ve shot a lot of landscape images over the years where I’ve really wished I had it; situations where there was bright sky and deep shadows, or a bright rockface but also interesting detail I wanted to capture that was in the shade. With an auto-HDR option, I often find myself trying it, but also shooting a normally exposed shot as well. I more often like the normal shot, but sometimes the HDR one is the keeper. (I really wish there were an option to have the camera capture three shots; a normally-exposed one and the the high/low exposure pair it uses to build the HDR image from. It’d be handy to be able to shoot a normal image, with the HDR shot as backup.)

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You are correct and if you design this type of solution you already know this. With PCB design, the alternatives are heavier copper, wider traces, plating up copper in the areas that carry heavy current or a combo of any of the three. But you can only go so far with these solutions. Hack apart a known good SSR and I bet they use the exact same solution.

When we moved from the UK about 15 years ago, we lived in a PME TN-S property and my ex neighbors house is still connected thus. Newbuild and current standard might be to try to retrospectively phase that out, but its still a generalization to say all properties will be TN-C connected. If your in a TN-S property, its my understanding that ignoring that layout and putting your own earthing system in and bonding it to the supply one, can result in ground current back flowing through your system from neighboring properties.

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Phase-detect AF isn’t just faster, though, it’s much less noticeable in your videos. Because phase-detect AF actually measures the amount of mis-focus, it can command the lens to go directly to the correct focus setting, without "hunting" back and forth. By comparison, contrast-detect AF has to try different focus settings one after another, checking to see whether each amounted to better or worse focus than the one that preceded it. This can be quite distracting in the recorded video, as you can visibly see the focus shifting back and forth, even when the subject isn’t moving. Have a look at the video above left which shows pretty fast, sure-footed focus when the subject is changed. (See our Sony A33 Video page for more details and sample videos.)