AFCI circuit breakers and the problem of ‘nuisance tripping’ | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Power outlets in homes—but not businesses and other buildings—are required to have tamper-resistant receptacles, which prevent kids from getting hurt when sticking objects in the slot. At first glance, the tamper-resistant receptacles don’t look different from the ones without the safety feature, so read the label closely if you need to buy a new one. They’re a little more expensive, but I’ll send you back for another if you don’t shell out the extra money up front.

Bryan Orr is an HVAC and electrical contractor in Orlando, Florida. He is the founder of HVACRSchool.com and the HVAC School Podcast. He has been involved in technician training for 15 years. 

Video capture is an area where the Sony A33′s translucent mirror technology makes a huge difference relative to pretty any other SLR currently on the market, and relative to even fast-focusing SLDs. Every other interchangeable-lens camera currently on the market either doesn’t autofocus at all when recording videos, or has to resort to slower and/or more obtrusive contrast-detect focusing. Because the Sony A33′s phase-detect AF system is always looking at the subject, fast autofocus during video recording is no problem.

It’s *mostly* read-only. They usually have a LED for power-on indication. You could stick something to the front to detect that, if you needed a response. Tho for things like lights, usually the user will press the button again if they don’t come on the first time.

Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.

Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.

Not sure where did you get “…A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load…”. BT137 has the following listed: On State voltage (Vt) @It=10A is 1.3V, max 1.65, so the worst case is 16.5W, more realistic 13W. Not to laugh at, but still not close to 20W

Thank you so much for posting this! One tiny correction: the “108V” reference should be 208V, and that applies only in business settings where three phase power is supplied to the building. In that case, the three phases are 120 degrees apart, resulting in any two yielding 208 volts. Residential split-phase service will 180 degrees out oh phase, resulting in 240V.

Reading the related article will help you to not jump with such conclusions. It is stated very clear, to BE USED WITH FUSE!. Is no fuse on the board because the FUSEs module is separate from the command board. Just some common sense modular desing.

I think Brian’s point was that if the bond between the earth ground and the neutral return of the incoming premises power isn’t good enough, then the short to earth might *not* trip the breaker. Of course, it would likely start a fire instead (the resistance may not be zero, but it will be low enough to sink a great deal of power in most cases and a 15A breaker will tolerate a couple THOUSAND watts), but I think that if you can’t trust that the building is to code, then all bets are off.

Clearing the work space and moving any furniture before I arrive means I can get in and out faster, so I can charge you for less of my time.

It does seem to be an old electrician’s habit, never leaving the leads plugged into amps. Somebody commented on one of Big Clive’s videos about him doing that. Seems like a good habit to get into.