AFCI circuit breakers and the problem of ‘nuisance tripping’ | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Heat is a result of the friction of electron flow. Half the current at double the voltage should result in roughly half the heat if using the same size wire. It’s why our grid transmits at 100k volt over long distances.

Might be safer your way, since you’re transforming down, then back up again. Using a microwave oven transformer means horribly high voltages in the middle of the thing, and should, by chance, some insulation fail, or a bit of an arc, or whatever…

They all have a ceramic rod or coil wrapped with nichrome wire that turn red hot. A vaccum forming table design I looked at used ceramic rods made the same way with reflectors to evenly distribute the heat. I believe all of the above (I did not verify if the table was) were UL marked.

Andrew, here in the Land Up Over, Most residential power is single phase, A step down center tap transformer (pole pig) puts out 240 VAC from end to end and 120 VAC with respect to the Neutral (ground) center tap. Therefore the two phases are 180 degrees out of phase. These 3 wires are fed to the fuse box/breaker panel in the house. One hot goes down one side of the row of breakers and the other hot goes down the other side. Neutral is common, Ground is also in there, but whether it is connected to Neutral inside the Breaker Panel or outside may differ according to local regulations.

It’s not all a bed of roses with video and live AF on the Sony A33, though. While it tracks action very well, focus actuation with the kit lens is far from silent: In anything but a very loud environment, the "chock… chock" of the lens’ focus operation is painfully apparent in the audio track. Even with the ultrasonic motor-equipped Sony 70-200mm f/2.8G lens attached, focus noise was quite audible in quiet environments. Another really annoying (and entirely avoidable) audio artifact is the loud click that’s recorded at the very end of each video clip; the sound of your pressing the video on/off button to stop the recording. I experienced this with the NEX-5 as well, and it honestly seems like a bug to me.

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extra-low_voltage >Extra-low voltage (ELV), in electricity supply, is one of several means to protect against electrical shock. The International Electrotechnical Commission and its member organizations define an ELV circuit as one in which the electrical potential of any conductor against earth (ground) is not more than either 25 volts RMS (35 volts peak) for alternating current[inconsistent], or ripple-free 60 volts for direct current under dry conditions.

My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.

Typically, drivers are rated to handle surges in the range of 1 to 4 kV. The varistor, ranging from 7 to 14 mm in diameter, is usually located downstream of the fuse on the ac mains. However, to provide higher-level surge immunity for lighting installed outdoors in exposed surge environments, outdoor-lighting OEMs may want to add surge-protection devices (SPDs) on the ac input lines of their luminaires ahead of the LED driver.

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Viking if your cord is getting hot, it’s being overloaded. Time to upgrade the circuit wiring and breaker. The cable doesn’t necessarily have to feel cold, but it shouldn’t feel noticeably warm to the touch either.

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets