Ameriprise Finl Com (AMP) Shareholder Fdx Advisors Has Increased Stake by $342,804; Fukoku Mutual Life Insurance Company Stake in Amazon Com (AMZN) Raised as Share Price Declined | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

As someone who started playing with electronics in the days of B+ in the 350VDC range with double that across the main xformer’s secondary, I was utterly appalled at the idea of tying myself to a hard ground when working with some of the newer (for the time) solid-state stuff that was coming out. We had a respect for high voltage then that is often missing these days, this article is an excellent reminder that this is still needed.

Yeah, dont use these. Use a relay instead. There is a reason all the high end stuff went away from the Triacs as they will float to full mains voltage when no load is connected and you get electrocuted when you mess with the circuit. AMX, Crestron, Lutron, etc all have moved away from pure Triac control due to this safety issue.

I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)

From the Auris to this, haven’t Toyota learnt anything. It’s just a slightly bigger and slightlly less DULL than the car it replaces.

Some adjustment necessary. This shot turned out well at -0.3 EV, but a lot of my shots under bright conditions could really have used -0.7 EV of adjustment.

While we are on this topic, in Canada a common building distribution voltage is 347/600V. Typically supplied to any medium sized business that requires more than 100kW and less than what would justify their own high voltage vault. For you electricians out there, a neat trick with 347/600V is that the current on a balanced 3 phase line nicely multiplies out to the power. So at 3 lines x 347V at 100A is 104kVA.

You say dull, I say perfectly judged for the day to day. This plus a sports car for the weekend would be a very nice combo.

It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).

It’s the same with larger, more power hungry projects as well. [Nerd Ralph] has been running a mining rig for a few years now, and has learned just how important proper power supply management can be. His strategy involves using interlocks to ensure everything powers up at the same time to avoid feedback problems, running a separate ground wire between all GPU cards and the PSU and running the supplies at 220 for the NA folks.

A fun read is the Boeing’s space station power system document that describes the DC power system on the ISS: http://www.boeing.com/assets/pdf/defense-space/space/spacestation/systems/docs/ISS%20Electric%20Power%20System.pdf

Older light fixtures won’t necessarily work with energy-efficient CFL and LED bulbs. If you want to stay away from incandescent light bulbs, you might need to replace the whole fixture.

Handheld Twilight mode captures a batch of high-ISO images, reducing blur from camera shake, and then averages the aligned exposures so as to reduce image noise. A new Multi-Frame NR mode acts similarly, but allows the ISO sensitivity to be selected manually, allowing use even at lower sensitivities. Of course, these effects could all be achieved in a PC with some work and know-how, but what’s impressive is that they’re now available with a minimum of fuss, in-camera. To ensure that even inexperienced photographers can derive benefit from these features, Sony has also created a new Auto+ exposure mode that can identify when these functions might be of use, and then enable them automatically.