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Temperature swing in the water heater may be about 50K, incandescent bulb filament temperature swing is closer to 3000K. I doubt there is much variation in the resistance of the water heater’s heating element

Step 2:  To determine which MOV disc size to use, first identify the MOV series that minimally meet the 1000-A surge requirement. Inspecting the table above suggests a 20-mm MOV with a 31-V dc maximum continuous voltage rating (part number V20E25P) as a possible solution to meet the requirements.

UL rule of thumb for shock hazard: 1.5mm / 60mils distance between a hazardous live conductor and something touchable for single insulation level protection (double that for double insulation).

Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.

We frequently come across warm circuit breakers, warm dimmer switches, and even warm electrical panels during our home inspections. So how warm is too warm? It depends. I know, it’s kind of a blowhard answer, but there’s no one-size-fits-all answer.

I know some policies that clearly state work needs to be performed by “duly licensed” personnel (ie. you better be a licensed electrician or plumber). That’s one of the reasons I did not want to install my own automated transfer switch. Insurance company would possibly deny coverage in event of a mishap.

The RF-controlled remote switch appliances that can be found for a few dollars are self-contained, I would think that a Wifi-based one could also be?

The run and start capacitors provide the phase shift for starting torque because their capacitances add up when wired in parallel. In fact, both capacitors are wired in series with the start winding and in parallel with the run winding.

The IEC61010 category ratings on an Agilent multimeter. Medvedev [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia CommonsYour instruments such as multimeters, oscilloscopes, and their probes will all carry an appropriate safety rating for maximum voltage, surge voltage, and current. In modern equipment this will be denoted by specified classes each with their associated voltage defined under IEC 61010, though you may find older equipment with IEC348 or other national standard ratings (Fluke publishes a handy PDF explaining these standards in detail if you would like to know more). These ratings are important in ensuring that the instrument keeps you safe as you use it.

You’ll notice that I didn’t explain exactly how to correct this. I do this intentionally because I’m not going to do the work. This situation could be easily fixed by replacing the dimmer switch with a simple toggle switch, by installing a dimmer rated for a higher wattage, or by installing bulbs with a lower wattage. Any of those would be fine, but as the home inspector, I don’t design the repairs.

I think in the long-term this shameful scam-fest won’t last. Because stuff will keep bursting into flames all around us, for one thing. But hopefully people will realise that Ebay’s “rating” nonsense is only valuable if the people who give the ratings actually know what they’re talking about. The whole point of counterfeit stuff is you mislead the customer so they don’t.

We first saw this feature in Sony’s DSC-TX1 and DSC-WX1 in mid-2009. Since then, it’s been mimicked by other manufacturers, but none seem to do it as well as Sony. In Handheld Twilight mode, the camera captures up to 6 shots in rapid succession, micro-aligns them with each other, and then adds them all together. The net result is that you can hand-hold ridiculously long exposures and still get sharp results, with very low image noise to boot. Combine this with Sony’s SteadyShot image stabilization and sharp handheld photos at half-second exposure times are feasible.