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And don’t trust the 15KV gloves you pick up a Dayton Hamvention for $20. There’s a reason they’re so cheap, unless you certify them they’re just as bad as having nothing at all due to unknown defects and misplaced trust.

Exactly, sometimes less of a compact form factor makes a better product overall. Snubber circuit is a nice touch tough.

440.32 Single Motor-Compressor — Branch-circuit conductors supplying a single-motor compressor shall have an ampacity not less than 125 percent of either the motor compressor-rated load current or the branch-circuit selection current, whichever is greater.

I think Brian’s point was that if the bond between the earth ground and the neutral return of the incoming premises power isn’t good enough, then the short to earth might *not* trip the breaker. Of course, it would likely start a fire instead (the resistance may not be zero, but it will be low enough to sink a great deal of power in most cases and a 15A breaker will tolerate a couple THOUSAND watts), but I think that if you can’t trust that the building is to code, then all bets are off.

I’d like to say that if a circuit breaker is X-degrees over ambient, it’s a problem… but there’s just no hard and fast rule for this. I can’t say this.

Found said bare wires and had the ultimate Homer Simpson moment after separating them (probably when the lights weren’t plugged in), and thought ‘hey wouldn’t it be fun to complete this mains circuit across my body’. I didn’t really check with the lights lit up, but I was having a whale of a time juddering and screaming for a few seconds till somehow I managed to let go of the wires

MLVs come in various chip form sizes, and are capable of dissipating significant surge energy for their size. Thus, they suit both data-line and power-supply transient-suppression applications.

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

If you have a 3D-capable Sony television to view them on, capturing 3D images can definitely be entertaining. That’s about where I’d leave it, though: "Entertaining" vs "compelling." While you do get a reasonable 3D effect in shots captured this way, I found the quality of the 3D experience a little disappointing. Don’t expect Avatar-level 3D, this strikes me as more of a gee-whiz sort of feature: In my experience, the 3D effect is a bit limited, and foreground objects tend to break up visually. I suspect this has to do with the fact that the perspective is changing throughout the sweep, so things like effective intraocular distance and viewing angle aren’t perfectly consistent throughout the image. Whatever the cause, it’s a fun effect, but not something that would be a decisive factor for me in choosing a camera, whereas ordinary 2D sweep panorama is something that I’ve used often. (Personally, I suspect this feature has a lot less to do with selling cameras than it does with selling TVs: I wouldn’t buy a camera for the feature, but all else being equal, if I owned a Sony camera that had the feature, I’d be more inclined to purchase a Sony television that supported it.)

On my printer I closed the sides, took the heated bed off and fitted a relay on the driving wires connected to a travel (230 volt AC) hair dryer screwed to the back. ABS prints like PLA now, no warping or other problems other than the normal ABS shrinkage factor.

It does seem to be an old electrician’s habit, never leaving the leads plugged into amps. Somebody commented on one of Big Clive’s videos about him doing that. Seems like a good habit to get into.

(No portable generator can power an entire house; for that you’ll need a different category of generator, called a home standby or whole-house generator, which will cost $2,500 to $4,500, plus installation, something that can run in the thousands, depending on where you live.)