And if your primary and secondary are of different wire gauges, the thinner one becomes your limiting current factor. Wired in parallel gives the same ampere-turn count, but with less resistance, possible more AMPeres, so more aoere-turns.
If you’re worried about activists using media to promote fear and doubt about science and medicine,you’re in the right place. At Science 2.0, scientists are the journalists. with no political bias or editorial control. But we can’t do it alone so please make a difference.
A lot of times these days, it seems like we hackers are a little like kids in a candy store. With so many cool devices available for pennies at the click of a mouse, it’s temptingly easy to order first and ask questions about quality later. Most of the time that works out just fine, with the main risk of sourcing a dodgy component being a ruined afternoon of hacking when a part fails.
This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.
When I was a kid I built a Tesla coil using a 12kV neon sign transformer which my mom got for me (this was the 1960s, before Americans turned into wimps). At some point I had the transformer sitting on my workbench and plugged in, with nothing connected to the output. The corona discharge made a hissing sound, but I had music on and couldn’t hear it. Perhaps eight inches away was my table radio, which had a metal chassis. I reached between the two to get something, and my arm shortened the air path enough for an arc to form. I had a couple of nifty burn marks (entry and exit) for a few weeks.
A REAL Fotek is a good brand ….. however some dishonest shops in China are turning out fakes by the thousands ,,,,, I got burnt by a fake Fotek 25A DC SSR for a printer a couple of years ago and the 2nd or 3rd time I used it the MOSFET went up in smoke although nowhere near this spectacularly …. I ended up replacing it wtih a 100A Fotek that I could ascertain was genuine and it’s been working ever since
Multilayer varistors (MLVs) address a specific part of the transient-voltage spectrum: the circuit-board environment. Although lower in energy, transients from ESD, inductive load switching, and even lightning-surge remnants might otherwise reach sensitive integrated circuits on the board. MLVs are also made of ZnO materials, but theyâre fabricated with interwoven layers of metal electrodes and produced in leadless ceramic packages. Theyâre designed to transition from a high-impedance state to a conduction state when subjected to voltages that exceed their nominal voltage rating.
Oh well… That industrial relay has ‘almost’ the same contact ratings of a simple songle srd-05v sl-c relay (specifically the C form/single phase). But I’m sure it won’t last as long as 20y+ in such harsh environment.
I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)
I know this goes against what many of you have been told and understood your entire career, but take a deep breath and read on.
I haven’t seen you around the traps here before and you have put in a good effort so welcome aboard.
Electricity is complicated and dangerous. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you could start a fire or get electrocuted—sometimes fatally. Pretty much anything beyond plugging something into the wall should be left to a professional. The cost of my visit is nothing compared to the price of your safety. Here are 12 more home improvement projects you should never DIY.
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