The focus voltage on a CRT can wake you up. The shock may not kill you, but falling backwards over a stool can break a limb. I remember working with some Japanese colleagues a long time ago on color displays for IBM mainframes. A young Japanese guy had been sent over to watch our testing and make notes. He didn’t speak a word of English, and to be honest we didn’t warn him very well that the bared card on the tube neck he was investigating was live, and then some.
They made me a 110v silicone rubber heat bed with adhesive backing at the size I wanted with 2 integrated thermistors and appropriate cabling for like $60 delivered to my door. Add a 110v relay and you’re good to go. The Eustathios and Herculien builders group have been using these for a while.
For the person who jumps up and says “coatings insulate the water from the trace”, well no it doesn’t, we are talking about AC voltages and water that has formed over a large trace (even insulated) forms a capacitor that will conduct AC even when you have a DC insulation. Even if it did you then still have the exposed solder pads.
Andrew, here in the Land Up Over, Most residential power is single phase, A step down center tap transformer (pole pig) puts out 240 VAC from end to end and 120 VAC with respect to the Neutral (ground) center tap. Therefore the two phases are 180 degrees out of phase. These 3 wires are fed to the fuse box/breaker panel in the house. One hot goes down one side of the row of breakers and the other hot goes down the other side. Neutral is common, Ground is also in there, but whether it is connected to Neutral inside the Breaker Panel or outside may differ according to local regulations.
Agreed, this is a house fire waiting to happen and your insurance co. won’t give you a cent if an investigation points to this homecooked thing as the firestarter. There are numerous commercial alternatives which are small enough to fit in a junction box _and_ are UL/FCC/CE approved. Granted, they aren’t as cheap as the ESP module and the triac described here, but in the end, most cheap alternatives to switching powerful currents turn out to be very expensive after all.
Historically, there were two post-war electric utilities, and one contracted with GE for equipment, and the other contracted with Siemens – thus the two wound up with different frequencies.
One quirk of the design of the Sony A33 (and shared by the A55) unfortunately conspires to make this high-speed burst shooting somewhat harder to use than would otherwise be the case. For both the ultra-speedy Continuous Priority AE mode, and the six frames per second Continuous Advance Hi mode, the live view isn’t shown on the viewfinder or LCD panel. Instead, the A33 shows the previously captured image. This makes it harder to follow fast-moving action, since rather than seeing what’s you’re trying to frame, you’re effectively seeing a static slideshow of what happened around a tenth of a second earlier. This problem, incidentally, is also found on all of the SLD’s we’ve reviewed. The Continuous Advance Lo mode, which shoots at around 2.5 frames per second on the A33, does return to the live view between shots, but only briefly — so it can still be a little hard to follow.
I thought “residual current circuit breaker” was just the European name for what we call a GFCI in the US.
Yeah, dont use these. Use a relay instead. There is a reason all the high end stuff went away from the Triacs as they will float to full mains voltage when no load is connected and you get electrocuted when you mess with the circuit. AMX, Crestron, Lutron, etc all have moved away from pure Triac control due to this safety issue.
It can take 15 to 20 minutes for your air conditioner to get up and running after it’s tripped a circuit breaker or the power is turned off. Be patient and wait it out before trying something else.
Still, most capitalists, when you order something, don’t ask “what do you want it for?”, so they can substitute something else without telling you. Generally in contracting with capitalists, mysterious “problems” don’t regularly as clockwork pop up, increasing the cost above what was agreed.
A good quality EVSE can cost between $300 and around $1,200. If you’re choosing a wall-mounted unit, expect to pay another several hundred dollars for installation, depending on local labor rates and permit costs.
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