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The gate resistor will eventually short to the trace after so many cycles. It may take a while, but it will eventually happen. We had that problem years ago with a product. Resistor has to be lifted up above the trace. Traces and such seem fine for 120VAC for low current loads. Wouldn’t pass muster overseas.

Most people posting seem to have three stories, I only have two. Hard to believe I learn faster than you all; I must have just forgotten the other times.

“OK, you hold that small bulb across that plug, I’ll connect this 9v battery across the live & neutral pins…”

Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.

The control circuit for the 12V/24V can be as simple as a MOSFET and don’t even need to be isolated if you know what you are doing. Because you are using a regulated supply, the same heated bed can be used at different countries with different voltages. The safety regulatory stuff get you covered as 12/24V are considered to be low voltage.

In the case of Chinese relays and SSRs I double the amps and add 10% …. Ditto for Chinese switching regulators which put out everything but DC after they reach about 50-60% of their rated load

Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.

Under a heavy load, an A/C unit can trip an electrical breaker. Check the breaker box to make sure this hasn’t happened, and also use a multimeter to check the fuses inside the disconnect block next to your air conditioner to make sure they are still functioning. If either of these scenarios appear, there could be an underlying electrical problem with your home’s main box. Have an electrician look at that.

Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.

Not at all. One lumberjack pushes while the other pulls, and they’re both pushing and pulling against the ground. It’s fits perfectly.

Steady in the dark. The Sony A33′s Handheld Twilight (HHT) mode uses multiple shots and micro-alignment to permit handheld exposures even in very dark conditions. This was a very dark bar scene, but the shot came out sharp enough for a 5×7 print. It could have used some exposure adjust and (definitely) a different white balance setting. Exposure is auto-only in HHT mode, but the similar multi-frame NR mode gives full control.

But at the very same time, if the rectifier dissipates enough energy for this to be a concern, then it is probably a poorly designed power supply to start with. As most power supplies will be designed for the voltage range of 110 to 250 volts AC. And as it will draw the most current down at 110 volts, then this is where the manufacturer has their specifications chiseled in stone, as if we want 1100 watts, then we need at least 10 amps when we have 110 volts AC on the input. This means that we “effectively” have 5 amps to dissipate per diode.