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When a circuit breaker has a lot of current flowing through it, it will get warm. The warm 15-amp circuit breaker shown below had a 15.6-amp hair dryer running for about 20 minutes, and it warmed up to about 17 degrees over ambient. It wasn’t especially hot, but it was definitely overloaded.

I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.

No, because they are opposite phase. In this setup the neutral wire doesn’t carry any current, so the same 15 amps goes through both hot wires.

NO. 10 ON A 50-A BREAKER: The data tag and the wiring of the air conditioner in Orr’s home, which includes a No. 10 wire on a 50-amp breaker.

I found the Sony A33 and A55′s AF tracking to be very fast and pretty accurate; almost too fast in some cases: If I let the central AF point wander off the subject for a fraction of a second, focus would quickly shift to the background. Many of the missed-focus shots I took were the result of this problem, versus the camera not being able to track focus quickly enough. Some high-end DSLRs have settings in their autofocus systems to adjust how quickly they respond to momentary loss of the subject. (Either from the AF point drifting off the subject, or for some interfering object passing between the subject and camera.) If Sony were able to add this capability to the A33/55, it could go a long way to reducing the number of missed shots, at least based on my experience.

Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.

Virtually every home in North America is wired with 240V (NOT 220V!) split phase, providing 120V to ordinary receptacles, and 240V (NOT 220V) to larger appliances. Most kitchens are wired with 240V split phase to the (split) receptacles at the countertop, providing a very convenient 240V source if you just wire up the appropriate adapter to take the hots from each phase.

The best tip for buying a portable home generator: Don’t wait until the lights go out. Whether you live in a place at the mercy of snowstorms, hurricanes, heat waves or an outdated electric grid, a power outage can range from an annoyance to life-threatening.

I’ve built a 24 V heated bed for my DIY (as I call it) Mendel 90 XXL printer (400 x 400 mm print area). I use a 24 V 400 W LED power source and – since I already had a 12 V RAMPS – put a 24->12 V DC-DC converter in line with the RAMPS and driving a 24 V heating mat (for cars) via a DC solid state relay. As long as it’s not too cold in the room I get up to 60°C which is helpful for PLA but of course not sufficient for ABS (but I don’t want to breathe these ABS fumes anyway)… I’d rather use a thick cable (in combination with an energy chain) than playing with mains voltage.

I seem to remember one test video I saw online, possibly BigClive, finding that the actual rating on the faux-Fotek SSR that he was dissecting was rated at around 10A, in a 25A labeled SSR. I believe it was also a MOSFET instead of the SCR or TRIAC that it was supposed to have, as well.

The issue is we are more than willing to make unknown compromises for price. And we don’t just make these compromises with electronic components. We make the same compromises in the vehicles we drive, the foods we eat, the houses we buy…..

Yeah, I screwed up this one. I was looking for the ON State voltage drop, but they were giving the power, which I multiplied by the current giving the wrong value above.http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdf this shows about 3-6W @ 5A. I was trying to compare both relay and triac at 5A, significantly below their rated max load. It looks like the affirmation still stands, the triac will dissipate more, but now the number is not even double.