AMP Seeks More PJM Scrutiny of TO Projects | 220v Contactor Relay

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I do not recommend diy 120/240 volt AC in this application. While you are correct that the higher voltage allows lower current draw, you are not proposing limiting the current, which can be very dangerous. If your hands were wet with sweat, you would act as a lower resistance path to any available ground you might be touching. In much the same way a hot dog will cook with 120 AC poet applied to each end, you will do considerable damage to your skin, muscle, and fat tissues along the current path. Use DC power, a larger wire, and maintain the safety margin. One trip to the ER will buy many hundreds of meters of wire and plenty of DC power supplies. Oh, and by the way, I’m an electrical engineer.

If ever there was a right time to change the name, it’s now, as this ground-up, all-new car launches with all the incumbent R&D investment and expectation you might expect for a vehicle that has been benchmarked to beat the class best. So while you might reasonably argue that it would have been more straightforward if the naming U-turn hadn’t been made several months after the car was unveiled as an Auris at this year’s Geneva motor show, the truth is that when Corollas start running down the line in Burnaston, Derbyshire in a few months time, surely only Google will recall it.

I’ve paid 18’000.- CHF in Switzerland back in 2017 for a 9.3kW roof top installation and I’ve gotten 5’580.- CHF back from the Swiss government in cash. That’s like 13 cents per watt installed

I did this to my 3D printer quite awhile ago. I made my printer bed from 1/2 inch thick aluminum for thermal mass. I went to walmart and bought a $6 clothes iron. The iron had a cast aluminum foot with the integral ceramic heating element. I took the iron apart and cut the element out from the foot with a bandsaw. I applied some thermal grease to the cutout heating element and screwed it to the underside of the thick build plate. I attached the thermister sensor a ways away ftom the heating element so i would read the build plate rather than the element. i used a solid state relay for control. For safety i ran a ground wire to the build plate and fused the mains. It works great!

If you have an older system, you might like to see more of a pool system rebuild. If you are interested in controlling the pool chemistry, we’ve seen that before, too.

Very interesting article. Being in the “treat it like radioactive anthrax” crowd, I rarely mess with mains level voltage, but I got a peek at what is required to do so. I read the paragraph about the “residual current circuit breaker” and thought it sounded very much like a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). I clicked the link and sure enough, that was exactly what it was. I was surprised the article didn’t immediately describe it as such, but as mentioned in the Wiki that the link led to, only the US and Canada call it that.

Senate Majority Leader Mitch McConnell has been clear that, aside from any spending bills, Republicans’ priority for the end of the year is to keep pushing judges through — and if Flake holds on this issue, it could throw a wrench into that plan.

The one negative that most stands out in my mind for the Sony A33 actually has the least to do with its abilities as a camera. The first thing that comes to mind when thinking about shooting with it isn’t whether I’ll be able to bring back the shots I want with it, but rather whether the battery will last long enough to do so. We have no doubt that the Sony A33 will meet the fairly generous shot-life numbers quoted under the CIPA specs (340 shots with the LCD, 270 with the EVF), but in actual practice, with the camera rattling off hundreds of shots in amazingly short order, what most struck me was just how fast I seemed to run out of battery life. It’s quite easy to run through a full battery in just a couple of hours of active shooting, and two batteries should be considered a minimum for a day of serious shooting.

I have been hit HARD by one leg of 440v, 3 Phase power running the 2.5 HP motor of industrial manufacturing equipment. I was on a cement floor, and wearing combat boots at the time. I am sure that helped, but my right arm and shoulder hurt with a strong, but dull ache for over a week afterwards.

I bought an optically isolated unit that is a “Solid State Relay.” ( SSR)The insides are some kind of zero crossing SCR/TRIAC I’m sure but the key is that the input is a logic signal at a few ma anywhere between 4-30 VDC. This unit is rated to 250VAC at 50 amps. I use it with a foot switch and DC wall wart to turn my welder on and off. It DOES require a beefy heat sink for that kind of power but it hasn’t even broken a sweat (my welder uses around 40 amps give or take.) I would strongly recommend adapting this circuit to take advantage of one of the many available SSR’s out there and let a professionally made and UL certified device handle the mains side. You just drive one of these with the GPIO side here. Of course you can use a much smaller unit for doing the typical 15 Amp light circuits. I actually used such a unit controlled by an Arduino to switch a hot plate (1000 watts) on and off for my flow soldering rig where the Arduino automates the solder temperature profile. I think it is best to marry our “hacks” to these commercial components that have proven performance/certification for our mains. My two cents ‘

Dumb question but in wiring up a bench setup as described – in what order should the isolation transformer, RCD and isolator switch be connected up. RCD on mains side of transformer along with isolator? Double pole isolator for live and neutral? Maybe add a suggested circuit diagram to the excellent article and improve readership safety even more.