AMP Seeks More PJM Scrutiny of TO Projects | Lrd12 Overload Relay

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The Sony A33 uses the image sensor itself when metering, and considers the overall image as 1,200 separate zones in performing metering calculations. Metering modes include Multi-segment, Center-weighted, and Spot, and the metering system can function from -2 EV to +17 EV (at ISO 100 equivalent with an F1.4 lens). An autoexposure lock button is provided, allowing metering to be locked from a specific portion of the subject, then the overall image reframed as desired. +/-2.0 EV of exposure compensation is available, in 1/3 EV steps. The A33 also offers a three-frame exposure bracketing function, which allows a step size of either 1/3 or 2/3 EV between subsequent frames. Shutter speeds from 1/4,000 to 30 seconds are available, as well as a bulb position that holds the shutter open for as long as the shutter release is pressed. Flash X-sync is at 1/160 second. White balance options include auto, six presets (Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Incandescent, Fluorescent, and Flash), plus both custom and direct color temperature (2,500 to 9,900K) options. The six presets allow +/- 3 step adjustment, and there’s also a color filter setting that provides +/-9 steps of magenta / green compensation.

Phase-detect AF isn’t just faster, though, it’s much less noticeable in your videos. Because phase-detect AF actually measures the amount of mis-focus, it can command the lens to go directly to the correct focus setting, without "hunting" back and forth. By comparison, contrast-detect AF has to try different focus settings one after another, checking to see whether each amounted to better or worse focus than the one that preceded it. This can be quite distracting in the recorded video, as you can visibly see the focus shifting back and forth, even when the subject isn’t moving. Have a look at the video above left which shows pretty fast, sure-footed focus when the subject is changed. (See our Sony A33 Video page for more details and sample videos.)

My post outlines the PME system. There are older systems that do run an earth / ground but they are being removed as and when they need attention. The US system is different but the number of countries using the US system is much less than the number of countries that use a similar system to the UK. I am UK based and UK trained.

The third incident was also while I was working for the welding repair company. I had a previously perfectly working high-pot tester and needed to test the insulation on a transformer. The tester itself failed and shorted to the case – and I took 11kv AC to the fingers just by turning the power on. That stung a bit, but I got a new high-pot out of the deal, so a net positive.

220 volt +/- 10% isn’t really a good design standard. As it doesn’t live up to the requirements within the EU to start with.

Anything below 50 Volts is considered “safe”. As in, you don’t need to be a licensed electrician to build and operate it. That’s the other thing with dealing with mains voltages in a DIY project. If you build it yourself, your insurance company won’t covery you.

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And for example the max continuous current one is “rated” for is 20A, and when I calculated the values without any heat sink, I should be able to run about 700mA. A lot of people forget to do this step before de-rating.

Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.

​So if I am looking to make the magnet more powerful, other than supplying more current, could I wire the primary and secondary coils of the microwave transformer together in series to get more turns (being mindful to keep the direction the current flows the same in both coils)? My thoughts are that it would increase the resistance a bit from the added wire but that the magnet would have a lot more turns. Am I missing something or am I onto something? Thanks in advance!

While we don’t currently have details on the precise viewfinder type employed by the Sony A33 — Sony describes it as a 0.46-inch diagonal (0.43-inch effective) Xtra Fine LCD Tru-Finder — it clearly employs a time-multiplexed method to display red, green, and blue color information at every pixel location, suggesting it is likely a ferroelectric LCD. This differs from traditional LCD displays, which mostly create color information with a cluster of three adjacent red, green, and blue subpixels (commonly called ‘dots’), for each pixel location. When compared to standard LCD electronic viewfinders, ferroelectric types bring both advantages and disadvantages. They’ve proven somewhat divisive in the past, due to their tendency to demonstrate RGB "rainbow" artifacts when you blink or move your eyes, or with fast-moving subjects. On the positive side, though, since each pixel provides full color, ferroelectric LCDs tend to look much smoother and more detailed than their traditional LCD siblings, with less obvious pixel structure. They also tend to have higher refresh rates, and indeed Sony specs the EVF used in the A33 as offering a 60Hz refresh rate. It’s not surprising to see such a display adopted by Sony, since Konica Minolta — the company Sony absorbed to create its DSLR division — was a particular proponent of their use.