Battlefield V’s creators: female characters are ‘here to stay’ | 220v Contactor Relay

VAC says: “The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other.” Of course they are not. *by definition* if they were in phase there would be no voltage difference between them. The two 120V legs are 180 degrees different from each other, so the difference between them is 240V. Which is (of course) the supply voltage.

I’ve done enough research about power capacitors and mains voltage that after I unplug anything, including all the TV’s that I work on, to repeatedly press and/or hold the power button until I’m satisfied that it’s discharged before cracking it open.

True, but I have never seen a product use them. They will probably become popular with wifi powered stuff.

One of Sony’s nifty tricks is their in-camera "sweep panorama" technology. The A33 and A55 let you shoot panoramas with the camera held either vertically or horizontally. The vertical orientation makes taller/narrower panoramas that are 5,536 x 2,160 pixels, as seen in the top photo above. With the camera held in landscape orientation, panoramas are 8,192 x 1,856 pixels.

So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.

Both elements weren’t on….elements in electric HW heaters are cascading…they cannot come on simultaneously. Bottom element is powered through normally closed side of upper element relay. Therefore, if upper element is on, lower element is off.

I certain the Residual Current Circuit Breaker is what GFCI is in North America. Not expensive at all for the units that will fit into a device box. The breaker that mount in the breaker panel are pretty pricey though, but are rarely called for. The only time they are needed if a building uses shallow device boxes for some reason.

I will not put all the money on the bet, but this one might be indeed one of the solutions: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf if you want something “all-in-one”. I prefer a separate external PSU for many reasons, including circuit separation and protection. You can find 5V and 3.3V SMPS DIN rail mouting ones for decent prices.

Once you’ve  established these ground rules you can then tailor your approach based on a realistic expectation of the risk involved. This process might seem rather long-winded, but in practice it should only require a moment’s thought. It’s infinitely better to take that moment to think than get an unexpected and possibly lethal high-voltage electric shock.

not exactly mains but when i was a kid i enjoyed playing with photoflash caps and at one point had one fully charged to about 330V and discovered the negative post to the AA battery was also connected to the cap and put the entire shot up one arm, across my damn heart and out the other arm, my whole body locked up for only about a second (maybe 2) and i think i fell over (like people in taser videos but i was sitting). it sure shook me up and im glad it was only a small cap

Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.

Remember that, across the same resistance, power goes up with the square of voltage; 120v RMS can deliver 100x the wattage of a 12v supply, and 240v delivers 400x.