Battlefield V’s creators: female characters are ‘here to stay’ | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Before we get too deep into this topic of wire sizing, let’s acknowledge that while detailed conductor sizing is the job of engineers and electricians (not HVACR technicians), there are many cases where contractors are tasked with assessing whether a breaker or conductor (wire) is adequate in both retrofit and service situations.

A relay with its contacts can take some inrush current. I found value’s between 15A and 30A for a typical 10A relay. Some datasheets even specify motor load with FLA and LRA (locked rotor amp, the max. value you get at start up.

I have been led to believe (largely by bigclive) that Fotek are OK but there are lots of fake Foteks out there.

Like many things, it’s the few psychopaths who spoil it for the rest. For most people, it’s quite possibly an emotional disability.

Your friend died of what and why? Testing mains voltage across the back of his hand? Please. Mains voltage is not scary if you know what you are about. I dealt with volts up to 132KV and mega amps and megawatts in my career I worked in the UK electrical power industry.

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

Ultimately under-rating won’t solve the problem. The Chinese scammers are already putting below-rated parts in, because they assume most users will under-rate anyway, so they’ll get away with it. If, in response to that, you under-rate even more, and this becomes mainstream, what do you think will happen? They’ll just take it into account, same as ever, and the 75A parts you’re putting 40A through, because you want to be careful, will only contain 20A triacs.

Looking at the datasheet for the Fotek SSR-25DA:https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/SSR40DA.pdf

I would also use a solid state relay. And I would think about gluing the glass plate with high temp silicone to the PCB. This vastly improves thermal contact and so heat transfer which reduces peak temp and thermal lag in the control loop. Also it prevents exposed live wires even in case the glass breaks.

Converting mains voltage down to 12 or 24VDC to drive a heating element makes no sense. To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires thick wires that can handle 10 amps, whereas at 120V, tiny 1A wires will do. If you’ve ever felt the MOSFET that switches your heated bed on and off, you know it’s working hard to pass that much current. [Makertum] is of the opinion this is a dumb idea. He’s creating a 110 / 230 V, mains-powered heated bed.

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To me, this is like the equivalent of cheating on your math homework by looking for the answers at the back of your textbook. Or worse, like getting a hand-me-down copy of Where’s Waldo and when you open the book, you find that your older cousin has already circled the Waldos in red marker. It’s about the journey, not the destination — the process of methodically scanning pages with your eyes is entirely lost! But of course, no one is actually going to use this robot to take the fun out of Where’s Waldo, it’s just a demonstration of what AutoML can do. Reed listed a few more possible applications: “Maybe a fun use would be seeing what cartoon character the AI thinks you look closest to? Maybe could detect comic book forgeries?”