Battlefield V’s creators: female characters are ‘here to stay’ | Circuit Breaker Parts

Terminals 4 and 6 are used for capacitors and/or condenser fan connections and have no electrical significance to the starting relay itself, as shown in Figure 1. In fact, terminals 4 and 6 are sometimes referred to as “dummy” terminals and are simply used for wire connections.Figure 2 shows how a potential relay is wired to a capacitor-start/capacitor-run compressor motor. Notice that the relay coil is wired in parallel with the start winding and the start capacitor.

Heat is an issue at high current for sure. But you only need a few milliamps (approx 200) across the chest, to disrupt your heart to kill you.

The morals of the story: buy quality components and test them if possible; when in doubt, derate; and make sure a flaming component can’t light anything else on fire. And you’ll want to review the basics of fire protection while you’re at it.

In my experience there are only TRIACs that are in perfect working order or TRIACs that have exploded.

Very nice hack and well documented, safety issues included. For all the rest of the naysayers, you are far more likely to die driving your electric car than from a charger failure yet most people think nothing of jumping in the car despite it being one of the leading causes of death in the US.

The Residual Current Circuit Breaker is a tad expensive, and is probably overkill for most hobbyists. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet, (GFCI), is cheaper to buy, cheaper to have installed, and a *knowledgeable* do-it-yourselfer can install his or her own. If you are knowledgeable about electrical wiring and codes, but don’t want to change an outlet in your house, you can buy a GFCI outlet and some regular outlets and make your own ground-fault-protected power bar, as a correctly wired GFCI outlet can protect additional regular (cheap) outlets as well. Alternatively, I’ve also seen GFCI units that plug in overtop of regular outlets and add protection to them.

Waterjet, who seemingly has no concept of how a basic opto-isolated diac-driven triac circuit works, chimes in with useless blabber about insufficient current ratings of the *optoisolator* — seriously? If you’re going to throw stones at someone, perhaps you could verify that you have somewhat of a clue of what you’re talking about?

I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.

In air conditioning, we are given a gift by equipment manufacturers on the equipment data tags: the minimum circuit ampacity (MCA) and MOCP or max fuse/max circuit breaker rating.

Semiconductors can fail, and when they do, they often fail in ways that make conduction paths that otherwise should not exist. Mix that with high voltage power and you’ve got a recipe for disaster.

No, that’s not a typo in the fact box up top. I drove the Niro PHEV a total of 253.2 miles, and topped off the tank with 3.107 gallons of regular unleaded. 81.4934 miles to the gallon very nearly doubles the mileage I observed last year in the standard Niro. 26 miles of all-electric range makes a serious difference — there were many days where the gasoline engine never fired.

I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.