Bing’s support for Google AMP just took a big step forward | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I liked your article. It had a lot of good pointers for others. It may be a good idea to add a red indicator between neutral and ground for the two incoming 120v lines. That way, if the hot and neutral are reversed, the light will come on.

Need the gas for the generator, or the ELR during emergencies. Usually just use the bolt and elr for home juice during power failures. I answer the lawnmower comment after they approve the moderation.

If you do not know the exact value of each cost, you could enter an estimated percentage based on the cost of goods.

As an example, I went to my mom’s place in the mountains, plugged in my Clarity PHEV using a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord to an outdoor outlet that looked corroded. After an hour I checked the plug and it was hot of course, so I stopped charging, cleaned the outlet thoroughly, plugged it back in and it was cool (or just slightly warm) to the touch along the entire cord and outlet through the charging process. Using the extension cord is dangerous as there is no thermal sensor in the extension cord at the outlet or could be damaged internally. The corroded outlet was dangerous (and could have very likely melted out had I not checked it). The cord can get easily damage.

Tomczyk is a professor of HVACR at Ferris State University, Big Rapids, MI, and the author of Troubleshooting and Servicing Modern Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Systems, published by ESCO Press. To order, call 800-726-9696. Tomczyk can be reached at [email protected] (e-mail).

The time-multiplexed full-color RGB pixel technology generally worked well to deliver very high resolution with no gaps at all between the pixels. The only place I was aware of the EVF pixels were in diagonal strokes of letters on the various VF info readouts, or on the electronic level display, when the indicator lines were tilted. I never saw pixel jaggies when looking at the subjects I was shooting, even in the case of sharp high-contrast edges.

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

Yes you are correct, I was remembering from just people recommending power USB power supplies, but looking at the latest data, it seems that current is always less than 215mA. That chip looks good.

Being small and shiny, it was an almost dead cert that a new engineer would pick it up, When tipped over, the relay would be energized by the tilt switch, the relay then switched off its own power, which resulted the contacts closing again, resulting in oscillation, and large back emf spikes which were presented across the two metal plates. As a result the person who picked up the box got a fairly significant belt, and let out some major expletives.

If you’re commenting on my mention of clothes-dryers and stoves that was merely editorial. Plus, my house has one on the stove but I don’t particularly want to pull the stove out and unplug it so you can charge your car.

The leads on that TO220 case SCR and that solder trace are not going to handle 20 amps continuously without heating up. A SCR that’s up to the task of carrying 20 amps for hours on end would have a TO-218 case or even be stud mount. If all else fails you could just use a contactor relay which is what they normally use for this application.

If the device does not have it owns fuse/breaker and relies on the upstream one, it had better be able to handle the full rated current without catching fire.