Aluminum is only used for specific applications like very heavy feeds and they have special connections for it. Wire nuts when properly used are very reliable. Push locks are not all they are cracked to be sometimes too. We do have them, I have installed literally tens of thousands of WAGO connectors. Generally we do not use fuses here, almost all circuit breakers and most new houses now have arc detect breakers too. They are used in industrial situations where you have 100A+ service to a single machine.
The best defense is to make sure you buy from reputable sources, not from some backyard hardware store or eBay.
I do not claim infallibility. I invite criticism of my designs. But I insist on that criticism be based on my work rather than be mere FUD.
Creepage to the mounting screws is one issue and that fuse crowed by traces at mains potential is just bad design.
We first saw this feature in Sony’s DSC-TX1 and DSC-WX1 in mid-2009. Since then, it’s been mimicked by other manufacturers, but none seem to do it as well as Sony. In Handheld Twilight mode, the camera captures up to 6 shots in rapid succession, micro-aligns them with each other, and then adds them all together. The net result is that you can hand-hold ridiculously long exposures and still get sharp results, with very low image noise to boot. Combine this with Sony’s SteadyShot image stabilization and sharp handheld photos at half-second exposure times are feasible.
I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…
In San Diego (where I live) residential electricty rates start at 15 cents per kWh. Lower electric rates are available if you charge the car at night, but you have to agree to pay a crazy-high rate of 53 cents per kWh at other times. That wouldn’t work for me, but YMMV.
You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.
I’d like to say that I’m also grateful to TJ and other contributors for their contributions, inputs and replies, I did learn things and this increased my awareness of potential hazards. [I’m basically a SW developer doing 3.3V electronics, so any insight on mains operations from those who have experience is welcome.] Even though there may be some unwarranted background noise, the discussion is interesting, and dealing with mains surely is worth a few questions. Not knowing is not a problem, not wanting to learn or daring to ask is…
At the end of the day all power supplies deserve respect, not least because they’re more likely to kill you by burning your house down than through electrocution.
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My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.
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