Before we begin, we must begin with an obligatory disclaimer: handling mains voltage can be very dangerous. Do not do so unless you are qualified! You could burn your house down. (Without the lemons.) That being said, [TJ] has created an interesting dev board for controlling mains voltage over WiFi with the now-ubiquitous ESP8266 module. At only 50mm x 25mm, it is easily small enough to fit inside a junction box!
I’m not remotely an experienced sports shooter, so I can have trouble tracking fast-moving subjects under the best of circumstances. Already finding tracking fast action closely challenging, I found tracking fast action closely based on a series of static images delayed by 1/10 second or more was quite a bit harder still. After a little practice, I got better at doing so, but I sometimes found myself resorting to tricks like keeping both eyes open while shooting, or shooting in short bursts and using the time between bursts to get the subject properly framed with full-time live view again.
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In the old days, we were always careful to remind readers to purchase a second battery along with their camera, but in recent years, battery life has become much less of a concern than it once was. Not so with the Sony A33, though: Unless you intend it only for light snap-shooting, consider the purchase of a second battery mandatory.
Simple, do you know how expensive it would be to change from 120v to 240v? It would be an insane amount and there would be virtually no benefit.
Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.
Adjusting settings via the Fn menu is generally a good experience. A very nice touch is that you can use the up/down/left/right directions of the 4-way controller to move the cursor between Fn menu items, and then use the front control dial to adjust the settings. This is nice because it lets you quickly make a number of Fn settings changes in succession, without having to drop down a menu level for each, or being forced out of the Fn menu between choices. The few exceptions to this are those items with a second level of control, such as multi-shot ISO or the tweak adjustments for white balance settings. In those cases, you need to explicitly select the menu item via the OK button, and then use the left/right keys to make the needed adjustment. The only exit at that point is to hit the OK button again, which unfortunately drops you out of the Fn menu entirely.
Well, once I replaced almost my entire PC ’cause I figured the motherboard was toast only to find out that my PSU died and would not power up my setup.
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The issue with the DC heated beds seems slow temperature rise. Some bigger builds and beds need a quicker heatbed heater. (In my opinion not needed for PLA) Only for ABS.
Dust particles are often flammable, in high densities this means they’re explosive. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust_explosion
I don’t think we would save that much money by swapping the heater to a mains powered. You would need something that is better insulated, and made of other materials. I highly doubt it would be possible to make a PCB with high enough resistance to work at 230V. That needs to be better insulated, more material, higher cost. Then you need to change the driver from a simple MOSFET to something isolated. Based on ebay prices of the kinds of supplies used, i would say there is a $10 saved by using a smaller power one. This is easy to see disappearing in better insulation and more complex driver.
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