Personally, I find Handheld Twilight mode to be one of the most useful camera features I’ve seen in recent memory. The freedom to shoot handheld under dim lighting is enormously liberating, opening up lots of photo opportunities that I’d have had to pass on previously. It’s the reason I frequently grab a Sony camera for snapshots when I’m going on a personal outing.
While I found enough to quibble about to justify my role as a reviewer, I also found the Sony A55 and A33 to be uniquely compelling cameras. The most telling point was how hard I found it going back to an "ordinary" SLR after just a day of shooting with the A55. I’ve long been an avowed EVF-hater, but the viewfinder display on the Sony A55 is good enough that I found myself sorely missing it when I returned to shooting with a conventional sub-frame SLR with a typically small optical viewfinder. The Sony A55′s shooting speed matches that of professional models costing literally thousands of dollars more thanks to the unique pellicle mirror design, and its uniquely Sony features (Handheld Twilight/Multi-Frame NR and Sweep Panorama modes in particular) take the A55 places no other SLR has gone before. I was also pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the Sony A55′s grip was, given the tiny body size. I still prefer having more to wrap my fingers around, but this is as good a grip as I’ve seen on an SLR body this compact to date. While its primary target clearly is not the entry-level shooter, the Sony A55′s Auto+ mode takes it closer to true "just push the button" simplicity in auto mode than any other camera we’re aware of, enabling novice-level users to enjoy the multi-shot and other Scene modes without having to worry about which to use when. At the other end of the spectrum, for the enthusiast with time to become acquainted its capabilities and familiar with its quirks, the Sony A55 expands the realm of amateur photography further than any SLR to date. In the A55 and A33, Sony has used outside-the-box thinking to deliver a uniquely capable, functional, and well-designed SLR. Hot on the heels of their category-redefining NEX-3 and NEX-5, Sony’s engineers have now likewise redefined what consumers can expect from an SLR.
Good safety design will deliberately include a point (usually mains input) at which the creepage clearance is lower than any other place on the circuit board. This almost guarantees a *predictable* result from an extreme over voltage event.
A REAL Fotek is a good brand ….. however some dishonest shops in China are turning out fakes by the thousands ,,,,, I got burnt by a fake Fotek 25A DC SSR for a printer a couple of years ago and the 2nd or 3rd time I used it the MOSFET went up in smoke although nowhere near this spectacularly …. I ended up replacing it wtih a 100A Fotek that I could ascertain was genuine and it’s been working ever since
Growing up in a family surrounded by electricians, we were always discussing codes and theory around the house. Much of what I know came second-hand through my dad but also through Mike Holt, a well-known electrical author and instructor I now have the privilege of calling a friend.
You are not understanding something correctly with these statements. You do not want a “hot wire” until you get to where the heat is needed so you have to use thick wires if the voltage is lower between your source and destination if you use a lower voltage.
The potentially game-changing performance of the Sony A33′s EVF overshadows its excellent rear-panel LCD, which is a little unfair: It’s as good an LCD as is found on any other camera, and in at least one sense literally outshines them all. It’s the same widescreen ~920K-dot high-resolution LCD we’ve seen now on a wide range of cameras from a variety of makers, but its implementation on the Sony A33 adds a couple of useful twists. First, of course, it literally twists and rotates, albeit from the bottom of the body, rather than the side. This unfortunately makes it useless for composing self-portraits with the camera mounted on a tripod, but otherwise is quite helpful for getting over-the-head and ground-level shots with ease.
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Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.
I can’t remember the exact numbers, but before the change, UK mains voltage was acceptable between something like 210V and 270V, depending on grid load. EU mains had a similar range. All they did, was tighten up the range. So now it’s nominally 230V, with 240V being within acceptable range. Which is good because the voltage stayed exactly the same. They just trimmed the range at the top end to be within the EU standards.
https://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/
Your writing is appreciated. It’s good to learn something more than just the U.S. english terminology for things. Also makes for a better laugh (sometimes) at some of the anecdotes written in the comments that one reads in so many places online.
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