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Can you please tell me the minimum creepage and clearances between the low voltage and mains side by your standards? How have you done the measurements and decided is not enough? I’m more than happy to hear the story. Ans also again…did you hear about conformal coating and what’s for?

I’ve done enough research about power capacitors and mains voltage that after I unplug anything, including all the TV’s that I work on, to repeatedly press and/or hold the power button until I’m satisfied that it’s discharged before cracking it open.

There are lots of big name professional meters that share the same ports for both. My Klein shares them.

Growing up in a family surrounded by electricians, we were always discussing codes and theory around the house. Much of what I know came second-hand through my dad but also through Mike Holt, a well-known electrical author and instructor I now have the privilege of calling a friend.

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I’ve been using a relay to switch a 1000W pump. http://telecnatron.com/articles/ESP8266-WIFI-Remote-Controlled-Mains-Switch/index.html

If you can tell me the relation between MOC max or peak amps values and the switched power done by the MAINS BT137 Triac I will be more than happy to hear….

That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.

This is very dangerous. Safety regulations are all about keeping mains voltage away from people, inside casings that are earthed or double-insulated. This has the voltage just lying there. Possibly covered with a bit of silk-screened paint. It’s not guaranteed to kill someone, but for the extra money I’d sooner have a non-deadly heater for a 3D printer.

Well yeah, that’s what I’ve seen, they fail on and stay on until either they or the piece of kit they are running catch fire.

This is overkill. You don’t need a safety-ECU for this. It is much safer to use the thermal fuse(s) you mention and they are sufficient. If the safety can done without CPU intervention, then do it. 2mil Kapton may have this standoff voltage, but it is scratched easily. I would bond the (high-tg FR4) PCB heater with silicone to a glassplate (pyrex or something).

Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.