Bitcoin Futures Deliver Wild Ride as Debut Brings Rally, Halts | 220v Contactor Relay

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I suppose I would’ve used small contactors with auxiliary contacts as interlocking instead through some sort of arrangement, but that’s only because I have a pile of them lying around (and you would just put the wires under terminals rather than QD’s) but as I said (and you reinforced) I trusted your QD’s, particularly at these…”small” levels of current.

I recall a battery add from the 70’s or 80’s that displayed the power of a couple of 1.5V cells powering an electromagnet that could lift a car.

The most useful thing I found in this article is that you can rotate those screw connectors at a 45 and they drop in 0.1 inch breadboard holes.

The list of absolutely required tools is missing the appliance tester. e.g. something like this http://www.fluke.com/fluke/m2en/Products/category.htm?Category=PAT or https://www.gossenmetrawatt.com/english/ugruppe/testingofelectrappliances.htm

As an engineer over 20 years ago I coined the term Beancounter Engineering this kind of stuff where some Idiot MBA sets the specs based on saving a few pennies rather than a Electrical Engineer that understands basic (and complex) science. If you are too damned stupid to understand the basic science behind Global Warming you have no business being an engineer or telling engineers what to do

With the nation’s network of public electric vehicle charging facilities still relatively thin, most EV owners charge their rides at home. This can be as easy to accomplish as plugging the car into a wall outlet or as complex as having solar panels installed to replenish an EV’s battery.

A capacitor stores electricity and is used during the compressor and fan startup for extra power. It also protects the motor from damage due to fluctuating voltage. These capacitors don’t last forever and can go out unexpectedly. If you are comfortable with electrical repairs you can use a screwdriver to discharge the dual start/run capacitor by connecting terminals to short it out, and then replace it with a new one made for the make and model of your A/C. If that’s beyond the level of DIY you’re comfortable tackling, then call a pro.

The rest of the circuit would be built on the backside, with judicious use of surface mount electronics rated for miltemp operation (to 125C). Standard connectors from Samtec or Molex can handle the current drive easily, with no problems from the heat. Add an acrylic conformal coat on the backside, or perhaps potting the electronics, and you can make the entire module one single brick module.

Didn’t have to purchase any EVSE. My 2016 Volt came with one, that was L2 capable. You only needed to make a pigtail. It’s actually a Clipper Creek. So, for about $60, I installed a NEMA L6-20 outlet, with 20amp double-pole breaker, and 8 ft of 10-4 wire that I had left over. $20 got me a permit.

At the risk of being labeled a pedant, I’ll remind you that Mike isn’t billed for power, he’s billed for energy, and you didn’t say how *long* you’d expect to draw 3 kW for free.

Bottom line, while the Sony A33′s EVF doesn’t entirely conquer the challenges of its genre, it goes further in the right direction than any other I’ve experienced to date. Most telling is that I now find myself reluctant to give up its benefits and return to world of purely optical viewfinders once again.