BMW’s iX3 is the company’s first normal-looking all-electric car | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

my first “real” job was in a video game arcade back in the 80’s my boss was a really cheap prick that used to buy asian cocktail machines that were “native” 110V, with a 240V to 110V step down transformer wedged in where it would fit, my second day I was fishing out a 20 cent coin that had missed the coin box, I got “zapped” hard enough to blow my finger nail in half and stop my heart.

Uh, maybe i should not post using a foreign language a 01:00 AM… Correction: It should be broken –> It COULD be broken

BTW, one can’t just put in a big red button and call it Emergency Isolation Switch. At least in an industrial setting a Emergency Stop follows strict guidelines which include possible damage to the machine from using it. There are rules and regulations for how these are wired, where they are placed, etc. One doesn’t just run mains power through it. Typically these are low voltage switches that cut power to coils of high current contactors and relays.

I use these kinds of SSRS in high current applications driving kilns. we protect ourselves quite happily by having a contactor in the line. The SSR when it fails fails ON and the contactor is help closed all the time but overtemp or any other kind of alarm will release teh contactor and break teh circuit. My recommendation – and no one wil ever get to the bottom of the comments on this feed – is to add a contactor in series which is help closed and opened in an alarm condition. Then the SSR can fail to its heart’s content and you’re good. The SSR is of course much better at switching on and off than the relay which will fail eventually from on/off transients. As usual – YMMV

“FEW HUNDRED’(???? !!!!) – I remember when I bought my ELR, Cadillac would allow $3000 for purchase and installation of a $500-$999 EVSE along with installation. In those difficult installation cases, the owner would have to fork over the difference.

If you run a separate earth wire that is hard grounded at the sub and hard grounded at your house and nowhere in between. In this situation if you get a lightning strike at or near your house then the ground potential rises. This flows through the earth wire to the sub ground and can be a massive current, enough to make the network fail dramatically. This rise in ground potential can also be caused by other things such as a faulty insulator on an MV or HV tower (pylon) or pole. Even if insulators are good then you can still get this ground potential rise. You can easily measure it with a length of wire and two earth spikes, put one near a tower and the other a distance away and you can see a significant voltage. If you also have a separate wire called neutral running form the sub then the potential between that wire and the earth wire is unknown so you have a risk of lethal voltage between neutral and earth, a situation that is not expected and potentially extremely dangerous.

There are people that play with high voltage stuff like Tesla coils, induction heaters etc. Now those know enough to respect high voltage.

*Using approved LO/TO procedures which include verifying the energy sources are removed/disappated and safe

FreeSync is available on the NU8000, Q6FN, Q7FN, Q8FN, and Q9FN. Once you’ve installed the latest firmware on one of those TVs, you can find it under Game Mode in the settings menu.

Theres a homebrew 80vdc @150amp supply in my cnc converted bridgeport, that runs the entire dc rail for the steppers and other stuff, its always scared me slightly because I know that the big transformer its based on has a mag field and when it collapses and it has some massive smoothing capacitors to boot, so I have masses of isolation distance everywhere the dc side runs and I disable the transformer with a dedicated switch while working in the cabinet of it. I had a stepper driver supplied directly off the rail go bad and it just had a large hole where it used to be. I just imagine that was a bit of me if I get tempted to get sloppy with it. I’ve never put much thought into getting electrocuted by a welder, I’ve tickled my finger with my 3 phase tig set more than a few times getting too close and giving a nice easy starting path to the startup pulse. Maybe I should, I’ve got a massive 3 phase 380v transformer tig that can do 375amp dc, that tends to throw all the breakers out while its saturating its massive transformer with the inrush current… I try to treat mains voltage with the respsect it deserves. Its a killer, but if you take sensible precautions and steps you can avoid it being you it happens to.

Due to its diminutive stature, most photographers will find that the grip only accommodates two fingers, with the index finger resting on the shutter release button above, and the little finger curling beneath the bottom of the camera. This might seem a little crowded, but with the light, plastic-bodied 18-55mm kit lens, handling is nonetheless good, with the combination feeling extremely well balanced. Using larger, heavier lenses, the grip size is too tiring for single-handed shooting, so the photographer’s left hand will need to serve double duty, adjusting zoom or focus while simultaneously taking up the weight of the lens itself.

I heard from an instructor that some guys from the national power company use full PPE when switching on/off old main fuses in domestic installations (230V, 15 to maybe 60A). These things are fully plastic and can be operated by everyone, so no PPE needed, but it seems like they explode sometimes – maybe because of the dust you mentionned.