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Once got electrocuted from a computer monitor though, that a relative thoughfully gave us without a case. I was reaching underneath to adjust the brightness or something. Touched something live. The monitor was on the floor, with the 8-bit computer (a Spectrum). My hand touched the live PCB, jerked away, bounced off the floor, and back up to the PCB again. Eventually my sister switched it off at the socket. Bit stupid really, I wouldn’t let kids near something like that, but…

I don’t specialize in installing dishwashers or washing machines, so please don’t call me about them. You’re better off finding a plumber.

The other issues aren’t as significant. The copper can be the inner layer like you see in multi layer (3+) boards. The only exposed part can be for the connector and the connector can be made water resistant and closed off.

First off, I would set the system up more like a safety-critical system. I would have an independent, segregated processor running the heated bed. I would have checks in the system processor and re-checks built into an independent circuit built from discrete analog/digital circuits on the system. I would use two, independent temperature sensors on the board, plus at least one thermal fuse, as well as one overload protection mechanism (most likely a fuse).

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It’s the other way around. Muscles and nerves respond to di/dt and not constant current. You can let go of DC but not AC because the continuous pulsing is how the nerves signal the muscle to contract.

Try it- measure the voltage between the neutral and earth ground pin on a North American outlet. If the voltage is near zero, then you have a bonded ground system. If you see 1V or more, then you either do not have a bonded ground, or you have poor / undersized / or very long wire runs between the breaker box and the point you’re measuring.

I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)

> those who haven had the opportunity to study electricity or had made the effort to study it. Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… Even worse is that there are people that want to build printers on their own, but are not qualified to wire stuff to line voltage safely.

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Hey [Martin] I think you deserve some recognition for your contribution here tonight (or whatever time it is for you).

A residual current circuit breaker. Jimbob82 [Public domain], via Wikimedia CommonsA residual current circuit breaker compares the current flowing in the live mains conductor with that flowing in the neutral. In a normal situation these currents will be identical as current flowing out one must flow back in the other. If they differ, it is likely that the missing current is due to a hazard or fault, and the circuit breaker is activated. So if the power shorts to earth through your body rather than the normal return path, it is detected and cut off. It is important to understand that a residual current circuit breaker will not protect you from circuits on the other side of an isolation transformer, however this is to provide some protection for the other circuits on your bench. You may well find that the wiring codes in your country mean you already have a residual current circuit breaker in place.

So here follows the first in a series on how to approach electronic devices containing high voltages, and live to tell the tale. By “high voltages” we mean anything up to mains voltages, and those directly derived from them such as the few hundred volts rectified DC you’ll find in a switch-mode PSU. For multi-kilovolt EHT you’ll have to wait for another article, because that is an entire subject in itself. We’ll mention these higher voltages in passing, but their detail is best left for a Hackaday colleague with more pertinent experience.

These ratings on the data tag tell us exactly what minimum ampacity the circuit must be capable of carrying as well as the maximum size the circuit breaker or fuse may be able to protect the circuit against in an overcurrent condition.


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