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For something like this I would go to a proper electrical supplier and probably would use an AC contactor relay that’s rated twice the current. Sure a contactor needs a 24V transformer but it’s a small price to pay and the current use would be insignificant compared the the hot water heater.

TJ may also want to mention on his project page that without a choke, the TRIAC will dump out a ton of EMI (that’s why most commercial dimmers have to have a choke in series with the load to be able to get FCC certification).

I’m a bit spoiled as far as AC load SSRs go, since I get IDEC and Omron puck SSRs from obsolete equipment at work, but always exercise due caution when I have to go shopping for DC load SSRs. Far too much fake stuff out there, masquerading as reputable brands, some to the point of ruining the reputation of the brand. (Fotek… For the longest time I thought they were only a Chinese brand, like the various Harbor Freight “brands” that they slap on their junk tooling offerings.)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/interior-auto-accessories/winter-accessories/automotive-accessories/polar-pad-engine-heater-125w-0300004p.html

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I’m glad you are aware of all of the many issues surrounding this kind of a hack. I spent 15 years as a commercial electrician, so the first thing that I did when I started to read this was think, “Oh, crap. Someone’s going to kill themselves.” I’m glad that’s not the case here.

Note: Not all certifying agents offer online lookup, and some have a lag time for posting new certificates. If you are unable to find a certificate online, contact the certification agency or supplier for further verification.

The list of absolutely required tools is missing the appliance tester. e.g. something like this http://www.fluke.com/fluke/m2en/Products/category.htm?Category=PAT or https://www.gossenmetrawatt.com/english/ugruppe/testingofelectrappliances.htm

Like many things, it’s the few psychopaths who spoil it for the rest. For most people, it’s quite possibly an emotional disability.

No edit, so addendum: glancing at comments below, one thing to note: go take apart a toaster and examine the safeties in place there. That may give you some insight into commercial (safety certified, most likely) implementation of a similar technology in the consumer market.

I thought “residual current circuit breaker” was just the European name for what we call a GFCI in the US.

I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.