Can Google AMP make the web faster without taking over the web? | Circuit Breaker Parts

The triac can handle 8 amp continuously and upwards to 60 amps in surges. But the 8 amp is if heatsinked enough. If you insist on a 15 amp capability replace the triac with a 25-30 amp model instead. But will *still* need heatsinking. I triac usually drops upwards to 1 volt, so pushing 15 amps in a triac regardless of size will generate up to 15 watts, and that will generate a *lot* of head in a hurry.

▲ 仲鑫达自动化设备有限公司专业从事制氢及供氢系统的研发、生产、销售和售后服务，对制氢供氢工程的设计、安装、调试运行和后期保养维修，都具有丰富的实践经验。

The few I bought on AliExpress all had 50% rated triacs in them vs. description. “Luckily” I contested them all for 50% my money back and could use them for lower power projects later

Level-2 isn’t required for charging at home, but it sure makes life a lot easier. I wouldn’t use or recommend using a standard outlet for Level-1 charging unless it’s a dedicated circuit with it’s own breaker. With the larger battery packs these days Level-2 charging is becoming more popular if not necessary. Consult your electrician, but I personally think pulling wiring that will handle less than 50 amps is a waste of time. You can use a smaller circuit breaker, but the wiring needs to be robust. Most modern homes built in the last 10 years or so should have a 200 amp panel anyway, so you aren’t going to notice an EV plugged in. Again, consult a qualified, licensed electrician. Also, before you let your ‘handy’ brother-in-law install your charging station, be aware if there is a fire from improper installation, your home owner’s insurance will most likely NOT pay for the event.

Note: Not all certifying agents offer online lookup, and some have a lag time for posting new certificates. If you are unable to find a certificate online, contact the certification agency or supplier for further verification.

I believe two-man saws bite both directions. And if they don’t, then pretend that they do for the analogy.

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Current starts derating at about 82C (see page 12). But look at the size and configuration of the heat sink required for a 25A SSR, it is 100mmx100mm with lots of fins (see page 13). That will be with lots of free air, preferably mounted so the fins are vertical or with some forced air flow.

Precisely, there is no need to reinvent the wheel (even though is more fun). This even has basic temperature control, just add a digital readout and an arduino somwhere.

Think for a minute, what are you going to find inside that box? You need to consider what voltages it takes as a power supply, what it does with those voltages, where any hazardous voltages might lie inside it, and whether or not they are likely to be accessible once the cover is off. It’s important to realise that simply because an item isn’t mains-powered does not mean you no longer have to consider this, for example if you’ve ever opened a camera with a built-in flash you may have encountered a capacitor with several hundred volts remaining on it. Where is the high voltage going to be?

Temperature swing in the water heater may be about 50K, incandescent bulb filament temperature swing is closer to 3000K. I doubt there is much variation in the resistance of the water heater’s heating element

“Engineering types”? – I would suspect business or accounting “types” to be responsible for “saving” on maintenance. Engineers normally know, that maintenance is important.