Charging Your Tesla Model 3 With Just A Wall Outlet | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Ok let’s assume you have a coated PCB that that doesn’t promote condensation, now unless you’re immersing your PCB in Argon, the flash over voltage is a function of the air it’s in. Unfortunately this calculation has many variables such as impurities in the air like smog (which cause condensation), altitude (which dictates how much moisture the air can carry), distance between traces (of course) and several others.

The LCD improvement I found most the most dramatically useful was the brightness settings. Set to Auto brightness, the camera will brighten or dim the LCD display in response to ambient light. This helps a good bit in bright daylight, but the display still washes out in direct sunlight. If you’re shooting in bright sun, though, check out the Sony A33′s "Sunny Weather" LCD brightness setting. Wow – That’s a really bright display! It does blow out the top end of the display’s tone curve (that is, you won’t see any detail in the highlights in your images in this mode), but this is the first time I can honestly say that I had no trouble viewing a camera’s LCD screen in direct sunlight. It’s a really great feature, although I’m sure it further reduces the Sony A33′s already-short battery life.

GM quickly realized this and changed the default to 8 A charging to prevent fires, and many others limit at 10 or 11 A.

I started my hacking adventures decades ago with vacuum tubes and high voltages, and have to say that this is an excellent and important article. I’m not sure of the country of the author, but one piece of translation for those just getting started. The “Residual Current Circuit Breaker” here in the U.S. is called a “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter”; but, provides the same protection. Another more recent protection innovation is called the Arc Fault interrupter and actually contains DSP type circuitry to determine if a dangerous arc is present on the line. Flipping a light switch or running a small motor creates an arc; but, the AFCI can tell the difference between that source and a frayed power wire that could overheat and start a fire. The largest voltage I’ve ever worked on was an amateur radio linear amplifier that ran 2600 VDC @ 600 ma for the finals, which brings me to the main point of this post. One additional rule: Always keep one hand in your pocket or one finger hooked in a belt loop. While it makes handling equipment more tricky, it keeps the power from having a path across your chest, which is also across the heart and lungs, which are electrically operated and can be severely damaged or stopped. BTW, I love the image of the sign/sticker in this article which hit’s the nail right on the proverbial head.

If I was working on your bedroom lighting and an outlet in your basement stops working a few days later, that’s just a coincidence. I’ll come back for the second project, but don’t expect me to do it for free because I “broke” it the last time. If I wasn’t working with that circuit, this new problem is unrelated.

There’s a lot of FUD in the comments here about extension cords (which if you know what you’re doing, you have some 12AWG SO and call it a day, 10 if it’s really dang long) and in terms of current, if you screw up and overload a plug you have a handy-dandy circuit breaker there for you. If you want to say I can’t trust that, you have other issues. I wouldn’t want to try this in a house with K&T, which I didn’t know was still so prolifically installed until I moved to the Midwest.

Try it- measure the voltage between the neutral and earth ground pin on a North American outlet. If the voltage is near zero, then you have a bonded ground system. If you see 1V or more, then you either do not have a bonded ground, or you have poor / undersized / or very long wire runs between the breaker box and the point you’re measuring.

For a more detailed explanation of how to match MOVs to applications, check out the “DC Application Varistor Design Guide.”

It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).

I had three electrocutions with mains voltage in about one hour. It was a dark and stormy night, when I decided to try again building my own half-bridge SMPS which had tendency to explode whenever I plugged it in. It was made of two boards: one contained EMI filters, bridge, fuse and HV electrolytic capacitors, other had high-side controller, transistors, transformer and everything else. When another transistor decided that it would rather choose new Pope instead of working, I got a bit angry. I grabbed something to drink in kitchen, returned and grabbed the board in order to smash it against the wall. I forgot to unplug it first. Ouch. Half a hour later, it was still dark and stormy night, I attempted to fix an ATX supply. When I was grabbing something from behind of supply, I touched the board with my forearm. Supply was plugged, of course. Ouch. Half a hour later, yes, it was a dark and annoying night, I was still working on the ATX supply. I unplugged the supply and was inspecting the traces, my nose and lower lip brushed solder pads of those two big caps that were charged to ~320V. I went to bed with my face hurting…

After a long, bitter, loud argument with the plant “electrician” I finally got him to check the distribution board, when we opened up the “big grey box” first thing I saw was all the earths, bundled together with tape and just hanging there. From where I was standing I saw a fuel tanker driver hooking the earth lead to his truck, which came into the same box.

China is a shithole. Business-wise it’s like the West was 300 years ago, when your “flour” was cut with chalk dust and all the rest. Except apparently in Chinese culture it’s seen as enterprising and showing initiative, to concoct little wheezes like this for a profit, rather than the thievery our own culture for some reason sees it as.