Charging Your Tesla Model 3 With Just A Wall Outlet | 19mm Momentary Push Button

The Residual Current Circuit Breaker is a tad expensive, and is probably overkill for most hobbyists. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet, (GFCI), is cheaper to buy, cheaper to have installed, and a *knowledgeable* do-it-yourselfer can install his or her own. If you are knowledgeable about electrical wiring and codes, but don’t want to change an outlet in your house, you can buy a GFCI outlet and some regular outlets and make your own ground-fault-protected power bar, as a correctly wired GFCI outlet can protect additional regular (cheap) outlets as well. Alternatively, I’ve also seen GFCI units that plug in overtop of regular outlets and add protection to them.

Full-time autofocus. There are several advantages to the use of a translucent mirror in place of a traditional single-lens reflex mirror mechanism. The Sony Alpha A33 uses the design to allow it to simultaneously provide a live view feed with full-time phase detection autofocus. Most of the light is transmitted to the image sensor, while a smaller portion is delivered to the phase detection AF sensor, where it can be used to perform focus adjustments — even during live view, high-speed shooting, and movie recording.

Yeah, dont use these. Use a relay instead. There is a reason all the high end stuff went away from the Triacs as they will float to full mains voltage when no load is connected and you get electrocuted when you mess with the circuit. AMX, Crestron, Lutron, etc all have moved away from pure Triac control due to this safety issue.

This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.

Funny story : one of my friend had a real electrical problem in his house : earth not well connected or whatever. You could get shocked by touching an USB shield while bare foot. Handling something without a case like a raspi was a living hell.

Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets

Reading the related article will help you to not jump with such conclusions. It is stated very clear, to BE USED WITH FUSE!. Is no fuse on the board because the FUSEs module is separate from the command board. Just some common sense modular desing.

I’ve built a 24 V heated bed for my DIY (as I call it) Mendel 90 XXL printer (400 x 400 mm print area). I use a 24 V 400 W LED power source and – since I already had a 12 V RAMPS – put a 24->12 V DC-DC converter in line with the RAMPS and driving a 24 V heating mat (for cars) via a DC solid state relay. As long as it’s not too cold in the room I get up to 60°C which is helpful for PLA but of course not sufficient for ABS (but I don’t want to breathe these ABS fumes anyway)… I’d rather use a thick cable (in combination with an energy chain) than playing with mains voltage.

The issue with using NEMA 5-15 receptacles is that people will use them stupidly. They will attach extension cords without knowing to properly check them for heat build up at the outlet and along their length. It just encourages bad use, modern EVSEs with heat sensors in the plug won’t work appropriately with an extension cord.

And now you know why companies react the way they do. It would be like someone going around deliberately ruining your reputation, and there’s little you could do about it.

You are right, FR-4 has a glass transition temperature of around 120°C, so if you heat up your traces above that, and take into account the mechanical stress from expanding copper traces, delamination is something waiting to happen sooner or later (especially if you design corners in your traces). Add to that the fact that you usually don’t measure the temperature directly on the traces to regulate input power, you could go way beyond 120°C in your copper traces. I don’t think a lot of DIY guys actually know that there would be high-TG materials on the market better suited for PCB based heater applications…