Charging Your Tesla Model 3 With Just A Wall Outlet | 220v Contactor Relay

• Calculate how much power you need: Generators are sized based on the power they provide an average home. Go through your home and identify the lights, electronics and appliances you want to run and the watts they consume. That’s simple enough to figure out with lamp or light fixture that takes a 60-watt bulb, and tougher to determine with your refrigerator. Aiello says to look for the data plate found on most appliances. It should tell you the volts and amps. Then do the math: Volts multiplied by amps equals watts. Or go online and look up the specs. Generac also has an online portable-generator sizing calculator you can use as a guide.

A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?

If you do not know the exact value of each cost, you could enter an estimated percentage based on the cost of goods.

Then when you step up a notch to the KV stage the safety rules change because air can now be a conductor.

You are right, of course. I should have used “shock” instead of “electrocution”. English is my secondary language…

The owners manual for the Clipper Creek unit shown in the picture specifically says not to wrap the cord tightly like shown in the picture. If you do the cord WILL get hot internally even when properly wired during a long charge. It needs that open space to vent heat. The cord will stay cool if coiled properly. Whenever people not knowing otherwise coil the public chargers like that I will loosen them up.

I forgot to say that 220 volt AC is effectively 310 volts peak, so therefor one could instead use 300 volts DC instead, giving roughly 25% less current to carry in the wires to get the same power in the end.

I don’t know if the heat is high enough but mirror heating pads can be quite small and put under a sheet of glass would be quite effective.

Ah, sō desu ka… Time to get some more iron in my diet, if I’m going to continue this dangerous hobby.

Is it possible, that the discreet triplers (vs. diode split transformer) were in the time of BW-TV? They had lower power. Or the guy tested the AC before the tripler, I think that would make a great difference. Although I also would not do this intentionally. There would also be a nice arc to a grounded screw driver, if you want to test the HT – without any current path through myself, what I really prefer. The electrician, whom you mention, did he really die while testing for voltage with his hand, or was his accident unrelated to this?

For the person who jumps up and says “coatings insulate the water from the trace”, well no it doesn’t, we are talking about AC voltages and water that has formed over a large trace (even insulated) forms a capacitor that will conduct AC even when you have a DC insulation. Even if it did you then still have the exposed solder pads.

Think for a minute, what are you going to find inside that box? You need to consider what voltages it takes as a power supply, what it does with those voltages, where any hazardous voltages might lie inside it, and whether or not they are likely to be accessible once the cover is off. It’s important to realise that simply because an item isn’t mains-powered does not mean you no longer have to consider this, for example if you’ve ever opened a camera with a built-in flash you may have encountered a capacitor with several hundred volts remaining on it. Where is the high voltage going to be?