Charting the S&P 500’s range-bound, but bullish, (unofficial) summer start | 220v Contactor Relay

Um, Though I live in Oz where we have 240 volt mains, I can see a big error in how it is explained. On, you get two different “phases” on th 110v side of things to increase the measured voltage.

The crimp terminals I am using are rated for 24A, and I am using a ratcheting crimping tool. I have checked, and therefore I do not believe you.

“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.

Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.

Upgrade the triac and redesign the PCB to be able to safely take a whole 2400W (Australian 240v 10A mains rating) of mains load.

I think we are past the early adopter phase. The general public will not want to use only 40 miles a day. We have charged our volt and ELR at 110, but I did add a 50 amp plug to our new house. I just purchased a JuiceBox EVSE. So I get faster charging now and I’m set for our next vehicle too.

Obviously, I enjoy having the Kia Niro around, either in plug-in or standard hybrid variants. It’s not a driver’s car by any means, but for a geek who likes plotting fuel spending in Excel, this would have me dancing in my spreadsheets. This Niro PHEV has me studying what it would take to wire a dedicated charging station in my garage in place of that worn 120v socket.

FreeSync is available on the NU8000, Q6FN, Q7FN, Q8FN, and Q9FN. Once you’ve installed the latest firmware on one of those TVs, you can find it under Game Mode in the settings menu.

A REAL Fotek is a good brand ….. however some dishonest shops in China are turning out fakes by the thousands ,,,,, I got burnt by a fake Fotek 25A DC SSR for a printer a couple of years ago and the 2nd or 3rd time I used it the MOSFET went up in smoke although nowhere near this spectacularly …. I ended up replacing it wtih a 100A Fotek that I could ascertain was genuine and it’s been working ever since

China needs to sort it’s shit out. Eventually, they might, then that’ll be OK. They may evolve the same way the West did til their business standards are reputable. Of course, that all happened to the West around the 19th and 20th Centuries. Since then, in the West, corruption has increased, and political bodies are bought and paid for by gigantic mega-corps, seeking monopolism and every other bent tactic they can try, for an eternally increasing share price.

We recently watched [MakeItExtreme] turn a couple of microwave oven transformers into a somewhat ill-advised wall-climbing rig. It looks like that may have been the inspiration for this build, and the finished product appears to be a tad more useful this time. The frames of three MOTs are cut open to remove the secondary coils and leave the cores exposed as poles for the future magnets. A shallow dish is fabricated out of steel and the magnets are welded in place.

But yes, 1A is the absolute maximum, peak value for the MOC3041M for a brief amount of time. Even the MOC3041’s 8A maximum, temporary rating is unsuitable as a peak for a typical 15A US mains.