When I’m doing electrical work, I *always* short the conductors to verify no power (after flipping the breaker and testing with a meter). Better safe than sorry.
Anyone that knows me really well, especially family members, is surprised/amazed that I’ve managed to be over 50 and still more or less bilaterally symmetrical, without too many visible scars.
My testimony : 230VAC doesn’t kill if you’re lucky. Lots of people died on 230VAC (Claude François….)
Your friend died of what and why? Testing mains voltage across the back of his hand? Please. Mains voltage is not scary if you know what you are about. I dealt with volts up to 132KV and mega amps and megawatts in my career I worked in the UK electrical power industry.
I think the only conceivable danger to using relays would be that they could weld themselves shut. But in this case, the relay contacts are rated for 30A and I’d not be likely to exceed even half that. The only other failure modes of relays are safe (the relay failing to close, for example).
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[Ron] does a nice job of explaining some basic concepts like using opto-isolators. However, the real value to the video is the easy way to interface to the existing controller. A little configuration into Home Automation rounds out the project.
I don’t think you can get multimeters that share the volts and amps socket, since the amps is usually a shunt to the ground terminal, very low-resistance, big and chunky high-wattage resistor. Volts is, ideally, infinite resistance, but not in practice of course.
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It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).
And it’s is a bad advice from ESD protection standpoint as well because nothing else, like your table where the new components are laying on, isn’t grounded so you’ve just created a potential well.
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