Charting the S&P 500’s range-bound, but bullish, (unofficial) summer start | Lrd12 Overload Relay

StarTribune.com welcomes and encourages readers to comment and engage in substantive, mutually respectful exchanges over news topics. Commenters must follow our Terms of Use.

What about converting down to 12-24v AC for the bed with a ZVC switch going to the controller? It seems that running it off DC is wasteful but mains is relatively risky.

The previous two Mi Mix phones were both pioneering attempts by Xiaomi to reduce the bezels around the screen as much as possible, but they predated the now-ubiquitous notch and compromised by awkwardly placing the selfie camera below the screen, forcing you to hold the phone upside-down or deal with an unflattering angle. Even Xiaomi itself adopted the notch earlier this year with the Mi 8. But the Mi Mix 3 preserves the spirit of the series while seemingly fixing one of its bigger flaws.

Halogen lamps hate being run at substantially less than full power! The additive (bromine or iodine) is used to keep the inside of the bulb clean and regenerate the filament, but it corrodes the filament if it’s not hot enough.

For something like this I would go to a proper electrical supplier and probably would use an AC contactor relay that’s rated twice the current. Sure a contactor needs a 24V transformer but it’s a small price to pay and the current use would be insignificant compared the the hot water heater.

There are lots of big name professional meters that share the same ports for both. My Klein shares them.

Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.

I think a lot of the negativity is par for the course on Hackaday when dealing with HV (or other areas with safety concerns) projects. I got my share of the same thing with my “Quick 220 clone” project. Such projects should garner a healthy dose of paranoia, but I think where it goes wrong is when that converts into unfriendly skepticism – that somehow it’s impossible for an amateur working alone to build something that would pass muster with UL or CE.

It’s not easy to get that many amp-turns out of such a feeble source. You can wind arbitrarily many turns in a coil and create ridiculous magnetic fields, but the series resistance grows to the point that adding more turns decreases the current and diminishes the field.

Often, the downside to those positives would be an overly-hard ride, but the MacPherson front and double wishbone rear suspension has been tuned to largely cope with what comes its way. There is a firmness that can translate to bumps and surface breaks unsettling the car, but on these Spanish roads at least, even on larger-than-standard 18-inch wheels, they were decently controlled. While it’s no guarantee of success, the development team tested extensively in the UK. There is also an option to fit a five-way adaptive system that includes damping alterations, opening up everything from eco and comfort modes to increasingly sporty ones to be considered – although you’d need to be dedicated to use them all.

My Tesla Model 3 came a week ago, Thursday, and I traded in my Volt. So, I swapped out the NEMA L6-20, for an Eaton box with NEMA 14-50 receptacle, 8ft of 6-4 wire, and a 50 amp double-pole breaker. About $75 at Lowes. Yes, the Tesla came with a L2 EVSE that charges at 32 amps. You could buy the Tesla HPWC for $350, I think, but it’s totally not necessary for most.

Please check Power Integrations LinkSwitch-TN devices:http://ac-dc.power.com/products/linkswitch-family/linkswitch-tn/