ClipperCreek Looks To The Future With New 64 Amp Residential & Commercial EVSE | 220v Contactor Relay

Please nobody get one of these boards. It is not a safe design for working with mains voltages. This guy has not followed guidelines for minimum creepage and clearances between the low voltage and mains side. You think it’s optoisolated and it may work fine for the majority of the time, but as soon as a mains voltage spike comes along it could bridge the gap and zap your circuit and you if you’re touching it (and your computer if you’re doing doing dev work at the time).

How are you implementing the power calculations, out of curiosity? (I have designed a couple of AC power meters before, so it’s somewhat of an interest of mine)

Even if you do go ahead and try to solve your electric issues by yourself, don’t shut off only your electric panel’s main circuit breaker, which is usually the top switch. Turning that off before all the miniature circuit breakers (the smaller switches that control a specific outlet or part of the home) means the entire load of electricity suddenly has nowhere to go, which could overload the panel—and that’s an expensive fix. Shut off each individual circuit first, then turn off the main breaker.

The issue with using NEMA 5-15 receptacles is that people will use them stupidly. They will attach extension cords without knowing to properly check them for heat build up at the outlet and along their length. It just encourages bad use, modern EVSEs with heat sensors in the plug won’t work appropriately with an extension cord.

I suppose the other point of note is that compared to 220/230/240 Euro voltages, residential 240 is not 240 to ground. The only things that have such high voltages to ground are either corner-grounded 240 deltas (which are exceedingly rare) and 480/277Y systems (which admittedly I do a lot of work with). I also really like how in the US we have such an extensive system of completely non-interchangeable, unique connectors for all the different voltage and phase combinations that one might find (thanks, Harvey Hubbell!)

While room up front is generous, and boosted by a wide range of seat and steering wheel adjustment, rear knee and head space is tight. Toyota openly admits it has designed the car predominantly around the needs of a two-person family unit, reasoning that anyone with kids would buy the estate. Exaggerating that outlook, our test car was fitted with an optional sunroof that ate 22mm of headroom.

But my toaster uses heating elements contacted to 120 VAC, and so no barriers against ignorant ding stupid things. I agree the lower voltage is use because of the illusion of safet is probably why they use the lower voltages. Only an illusion to those who haven had the opportunity to study electricity or had made the effort to study it.

The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other. Residential power in the US is single phase, sometimes called split phase because they’re both 120V relative to the center tapped neutral.

If you’re commenting on my mention of clothes-dryers and stoves that was merely editorial. Plus, my house has one on the stove but I don’t particularly want to pull the stove out and unplug it so you can charge your car.

This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.

In my college days, designing stage lighting systems for customers, I had a test rig that I used during a sales presentation. The reason I built this is that a customer had his electrician contracted to do the install work (we didn’t do the electrical install, just specification). When I specified 20 Amp breakers and told the customer that they’d be limited unless they upgraded their service, they told me that their guy had taken care of it.

With the primaries wired together, the magnets are epoxy potted, the business end is faced off cleanly, and the whole thing put to the test. [MakeItExtreme] doesn’t go into control details in the video below, but the website mentions the magnet being powered off a 24V 15A power supply with battery backup in case of mains failure.