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Second was with an old (illegal) CB amp that I was converting to HF, and I touched an unshielded feed inductor of some sort, the aftermath from the RF burn was worse than that time I grabbed the wrong end of an iron with my fingers.

First off, I would set the system up more like a safety-critical system. I would have an independent, segregated processor running the heated bed. I would have checks in the system processor and re-checks built into an independent circuit built from discrete analog/digital circuits on the system. I would use two, independent temperature sensors on the board, plus at least one thermal fuse, as well as one overload protection mechanism (most likely a fuse).

Probably best to derate to 1.5x or 2x. But even then, are the “solder” conductors inside really going to be any different? Looking at then they appear to crate a conductor way bigger than 25A requires.

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

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Keep in mind that extension cords running from a generator can power anything that plugs into a wall socket, but not hard-wired appliances such as a furnace, sump pump or central air conditioner. If you want to run any of those during an outage, you will need to have a licensed electrician install a manual transfer switch (it looks like a mini circuit breaker) next to your main electrical panel. A heavy-duty cord from the generator plugs into the switch and allows you to power select circuits in your home. Prices vary depending on your market. In Neale’s case, she paid about $1,200 for the switch and installation, more than for the generator, which cost about $550.

This is the sort of topic where it wouldn’t be a great idea to be dismissive of textbooks and/or formal instruction. Often local power line crews will put on a safety demonstration at hamfests. No doubt they would do the same for the various builder/hacker/maker spaces

I have to say in this case it’s probably a necessity to get anyone to look at the photos, so humdrum is the subject matter

Neutral is connected to Earth Ground at your electrical panel. Circuit breakers interrupt the LINE only so I’m not sure what you mean by soil resistivity and current flowing in earth ground. 500 micro amps flowing or rather, leaking through Earth ground is usually all that’s allowed by UL in cord-connected products.

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You did reply to the Gurubuckaroo comment, just a few interjections managed to find their way in first. Does mess up smartarsed replies occasionally, shame when it’s a particularly funny one. On busy articles, I often find posts popping up between pressing “reply” and “post comment”.

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

My own maxim is that just because something can be – and perhaps often is – done poorly or hazardously does not at all preclude any possibility that it can be done properly and safely.

If you enjoy people photography and delight in taking photos revealing real character and emotion, get yourself a Sony A33 and a large memory card, set the camera to high-speed continuous mode, and let fly. You’ll be amazed at how much more intimate and impactful your photos become.


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