ClipperCreek Looks To The Future With New 64 Amp Residential & Commercial EVSE | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

The heater from the inner layer of the PCB still needs to exit to the surface using vias or plated through holes some how. So the contacts are still exposed. You might use a TRIAC in something like the phase control in a dimmer switch as a PWM to control heater power, but the peaks voltages at the output are still at line voltages levels.

When I’m doing electrical work, I *always* short the conductors to verify no power (after flipping the breaker and testing with a meter). Better safe than sorry.

You are right, FR-4 has a glass transition temperature of around 120°C, so if you heat up your traces above that, and take into account the mechanical stress from expanding copper traces, delamination is something waiting to happen sooner or later (especially if you design corners in your traces). Add to that the fact that you usually don’t measure the temperature directly on the traces to regulate input power, you could go way beyond 120°C in your copper traces. I don’t think a lot of DIY guys actually know that there would be high-TG materials on the market better suited for PCB based heater applications…

There is a reason SSRs come with four bolt holes and a wide, flat aluminum base. And a reason manufacturers use these large heat sinks on them, and don’t forget a thin film of thermal paste:

There are split-phase premises supplies and three-phase. Split-phase is used for residences and small businesses, and three phase is used for larger businesses and some larger multi-tenant buildings. When using two of three phases, they’re 120 degrees apart and the nominal voltage is 208 volts. When using both sides of split-phase, the two are 180 degrees apart and the nominal voltage is 240 volts. The nominal voltage from one phase to neutral is 120 volts.

It’s not that simple according to National Electrical Code (NEC) NFPA 70 for several reasons. Here are some additional factors to be considered:

15A is more like 1,500 times what’s required to kill you, depending on what part of your anatomy it finds to traverse.

Since GM was having troubles with said DOPES regarding the 2011 VOLT, they quickly redesigned the current and all future units to have an AWG #14 connector cord, while keeping the AWG #16 connector cord to the car – why? – so that the oversized connector cord would extract heat from any overheating defective receptacle.

I can’t speak for the ‘3’, but you can – since you can at least compare your cost of charging with the 240 – 250 volt cost in the Tesla Calculator.

Rob, where would anyone ever get 10,000V from? Or even 1,000? Short of lightning strikes, these voltages don’t exist in the home, or in many factories. Why do those voltages matter?

Very nice hack and well documented, safety issues included. For all the rest of the naysayers, you are far more likely to die driving your electric car than from a charger failure yet most people think nothing of jumping in the car despite it being one of the leading causes of death in the US.

I have one SSR marked Fotek with 40A on the label and a 16A device inside. I feel a bit sorry for the real Fotek if this is the case.