ClipperCreek Looks To The Future With New 64 Amp Residential & Commercial EVSE | Circuit Breaker Parts

I heard from an instructor that some guys from the national power company use full PPE when switching on/off old main fuses in domestic installations (230V, 15 to maybe 60A). These things are fully plastic and can be operated by everyone, so no PPE needed, but it seems like they explode sometimes – maybe because of the dust you mentionned.

HOWEVER: these are NOT 180 degrees out of phase. It is more like 120 degrees. I am taking it that America also has 3 phase supplies, rather than 2.

Aluminum wire has a lower ampacity than the same gauge copper wire, meaning aluminum must be larger to accomplish the same ampacity job as copper wire. The rule-of-thumb sizes rely on the lowest allowable temperature rating of the wire; in some cases, the circuit may have a higher ampacity if the insulation on the wire and the connection endpoints are all rated at 75°C (167°F) or 90°C (194°F).

It takes volts to push amps, and if your body tripped a 1A breaker you’d be dead. For shock hazard, 110V is safer than 220V regardless of the size of the circuit breaker. But for a given power draw the possibility of overheating your wiring is lower with 220V, which is why I use it in my (American) shop whenever my equipment supports it.

No, that’s not a typo in the fact box up top. I drove the Niro PHEV a total of 253.2 miles, and topped off the tank with 3.107 gallons of regular unleaded. 81.4934 miles to the gallon very nearly doubles the mileage I observed last year in the standard Niro. 26 miles of all-electric range makes a serious difference — there were many days where the gasoline engine never fired.

I don’t approve of that design. It lacks the third relay, which means that if you plug into two circuits on the same phase, you get 0 volts between the two hots, but both are still 120 volts away from ground. That means that the equipment doesn’t work, but it’s not safe to poke at. I prefer to insure that the 240 volt outlet is guaranteed to either be completely dead, or properly powered.

1. 25A for 22A? Too close for my comfort. 2. A thin sheet of aluminum is not much of a heat sink. 3. Sitting on top of the hot water heater means ambient temp is going to be a bit higher. 4. Summer in a garage is likely to get hot.

I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.

CARLO GAVAZZI is proud to announce the launch of the newest addition to its RGC Series Solid State Contactor platform. These single-phase zero-crossing relays, featuring an integral heat sink, offer the best in the class current rating of up to 37AAC at 40°C or 43AAC at 25°C.

I recently had a home inspector ask me how hot is too hot when it comes to circuit breakers and switches. Many home inspectors, including all of the inspectors here at Structure Tech, use infrared cameras during home inspections. These cameras can’t see through walls, but can often alert us to problems with a house that can’t be seen with the naked eye.

You are right, FR-4 has a glass transition temperature of around 120°C, so if you heat up your traces above that, and take into account the mechanical stress from expanding copper traces, delamination is something waiting to happen sooner or later (especially if you design corners in your traces). Add to that the fact that you usually don’t measure the temperature directly on the traces to regulate input power, you could go way beyond 120°C in your copper traces. I don’t think a lot of DIY guys actually know that there would be high-TG materials on the market better suited for PCB based heater applications…

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