It’s one of those things that “everybody knows,” sort of. For continuous duty applications (and EVSEs certainly qualify), you derate the circuit breaker by 20% unless you are using circuit breakers and wiring that are specifically rated for continuous duty.
Besides the overexposure bias, I also found the A33′s metering system was prone to more variation than I’m accustomed to seeing in an SLR. The few times I had it locked down on a tripod, shot to shot exposure seemed pretty consistent, but on several occasions shooting handheld, I found significant variation between successive shots, apparently resulting from fairly minor changes in framing. I’d of course expect exposure to vary to follow changes in the scene, but the amount of variation I saw between very similar shots taken with the A33 was unusual.
I’m confused… “Wire up the outlets for your mining rigs for 240 instead of 120”, shouldn’t you rig it up to use whatever enters your home. Apparently there is a choice, how is that possible, do they run their own generators over there?
To be exact: It’s the anode or acceleration voltage. Focus is usually some kV, but derived from a 100Meg voltage divider.
Still, most capitalists, when you order something, don’t ask “what do you want it for?”, so they can substitute something else without telling you. Generally in contracting with capitalists, mysterious “problems” don’t regularly as clockwork pop up, increasing the cost above what was agreed.
Two inputs for the beefy converter are supplied from outlets not just on separate circuits, but on two circuits whose hot lines are 180 degrees out of phase. That means identifying where there are two plugs, not protected by GFCI outlets or breakers, which are on two separate hot lines of split phase power. To protect the user, [Nick] designed in a set of relays which kill the circuit when one of the two supplies is unplugged. A system that didn’t have these protections would have mains voltage on the prongs of the disconnected plug.
No, he is using a MC3041 to drive a BT137 which can handle 8 amps continuously (if properly heatsinked).
This is true in a certain temperature range, I think between 70 and 90% of their nominal power. And in spite of that there are so many lamps with halogen bulbs, which are fitted with dimmer circuits. And you know why? Because the bulbs are very cheap, so nobody cares And they are often used as heating elements: in a professional reflow oven (3000,- euro class) and in laser printers. But in the end I think for the heated print bed you do NOT want a radiative heat source, it complicates the things
But despite them being ‘commercial’, they’re still pretty hideous bits of cheap Chinese kit that I wouldn’t trust as far as I could throw them.
The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…
Before the code prohibited it, it was common practice to share neutrals between circuits. It was customary to pull three hot conductors – fed from three different phases on a three-phase system – a neutral and a ground into a single conduit in commercial facilities. The assumption was that the neutral carried only the unbalance between the three phases, and that would never exceed the highest current in a phase conductor. Now, you can’t do that anymore, unless you use a three-pole circuit breaker, handle ties, or a three pole disconnect switch.
About 20yr ago I changed the big noisy (*) contactor for the 400V/3 phase 1kW pool pump to a 4 pole relay similar to this one: https://www.reichelt.at/Industrierelais/FIN-55-34-8-230V/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=13324&GROUPID=7622&artnr=FIN+55.34.8+230V&trstct=pol_4 because of the noise it made. It makes small sparks at the contacts, but is switching every day in summer since 20yrs. If there is no cleaning work to do, the pump is only switched one cycle per day by a timer. So, maybe 2000 or 3000 switching cycles is not much for a relay, but it is sufficient. And even if it would burn out now, it had a 20yr lifetime. *) the loud “clonk” when it pulled in and sometimes humming from the coil. That disturbed my father sleeping in a near room. We do not need remote control, it just has to work.
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