If you have an older system, you might like to see more of a pool system rebuild. If you are interested in controlling the pool chemistry, we’ve seen that before, too.
Even if you have 20A circuit breakers, 15A is going to likely be the circuit limit because most heavy-duty extension cords you can get are only rated for 15A – which, again, means charging at 12A.
You did reply to the Gurubuckaroo comment, just a few interjections managed to find their way in first. Does mess up smartarsed replies occasionally, shame when it’s a particularly funny one. On busy articles, I often find posts popping up between pressing “reply” and “post comment”.
I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.
Depends how far north you are – direct sunlight isn’t required for them to produce useful heat. If you’ve got a months long night then they’re no use though.
Voltage TransientsVaristors feature high durability, which is essential for withstanding repeated high-peak pulse currents and high-energy surge transients. They also offer a wide voltage range, high energy absorption, and fast response to voltage transients. Peak current ratings range from 20 to 70,000 A, while peak energy ratings range from 0.01 to 10, 000 J.
We did go for an L2 charger in our case because we have 2 BEVs and charging them on 1 20 amp L1 circuit wouldn’t cut it. Generally my wife uses the L2 charger for her Leaf while I L1 charge the model 3 and only borrow her L2 connection if I have been too lazy to plug into L1 for a few days. But, if we just had the model 3 L1 alone would be fine. As for the “plugging an L1 charger into a corroded outlet safety risk” some other repliers mention. Well duh. If I plug an L2 charger into a corroded 14-30 or 14:50 outlet there is even more risk. If the 120V outlet is in poor shape $5 in parts at Home Depot can fix that. Any sustained draw electrical equipment can be a hazard if plugged into insufficient infrastructure.
Yes, I know that Iâm just offloading my energy use to my residential electric service (which is, around here at least, produced mostly by coal or natural gas). Letâs leave that discussion for somewhere else. The impact at the fuel pump is what matters here. Spending eight dollars or less every week to drive to and from the cube farm is incredibly appealing.
So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.
The TLDR; is – “In high voltage systems clearance according to EN60065:1994, 3 mm is required for Class I and for Class II, 6 mm is required in mains operated systems (240VAC)”
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This 225 percent of motor load/branch circuit allowance for breaker sizing is to allow for motor starting without nuisance trips while still providing circuit protection against short circuit conditions.
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